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HeliEngadin Inspire 2 Carbon Fiber folding propellers

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Hi all,

Just mounted my brand new HeliEngadin Inspire 2 Carbon Fiber folding propellers ... design and quality are really great ... i just get the message below in the Go4 app just after taking off :

Propeller error do not use plateau propellers at low altitudes .

Does anybody know why and what are possible consequences ???

Thanks in advance
 
Hi all,

Just mounted my brand new HeliEngadin Inspire 2 Carbon Fiber folding propellers ... design and quality are really great ... i just get the message below in the Go4 app just after taking off :

Propeller error do not use plateau propellers at low altitudes .

Does anybody know why and what are possible consequences ???

Thanks in advance
The firmware thinks you have high altitude props attached probably because the pitch is steeper.
There is nothing you can do to prevent the message.
 
Strange. Even after 10 flights I've never gotten this error with the folding props.
 
DJI pushes the limits of their motors as it is:

By installing props that creates more drag onto the motors (increases Amperage draw = ^heat), the AC senses the current draw so it warns you. Otherwise you will risk overheating the motors.
 
Would you care to share your experiences with regard to the installation of the new props? Any advice for those about to do the same thing?
 
I was an early adopter of these props and i have NEVER had this message!! I see no change in battery life and the quality of the GF compared to the cheap DJI plastic ones was well worth the investment. Now completed over 20 flights with them. The only thing different is at power up there is a small judder as the props extend to maximum.
 
I was an early adopter of these props and i have NEVER had this message!! I see no change in battery life and the quality of the GF compared to the cheap DJI plastic ones was well worth the investment. Now completed over 20 flights with them. The only thing different is at power up there is a small judder as the props extend to maximum.

And you fly with the I2 i guess?
Do you use go 4 on ios or android?
 
I was an early adopter of these props and i have NEVER had this message!! I see no change in battery life and the quality of the GF compared to the cheap DJI plastic ones was well worth the investment. Now completed over 20 flights with them. The only thing different is at power up there is a small judder as the props extend to maximum.
I am curious, what average altitude, temp and humidity have you been flying in? I launch an average of 35 flights a week anywhere from 10FT/MSL to 7.5kFT/MSL and 105°F ~30°F here in AZ. Thnx!
 
I am curious, what average altitude, temp and humidity have you been flying in? I launch an average of 35 flights a week anywhere from 10FT/MSL to 7.5kFT/MSL and 105°F ~30°F here in AZ. Thnx!

I am at 600 ft AMSL
Temp 18 degrees Celcius
Humadity < 50%

Warning came directly after take off at 3 feet
 
I am curious, what average altitude, temp and humidity have you been flying in? I launch an average of 35 flights a week anywhere from 10FT/MSL to 7.5kFT/MSL and 105°F ~30°F here in AZ. Thnx!

They only sell one set i guess with the same pitch as you have ??
 
I am at 600 ft AMSL
Temp 18 degrees Celcius
Humadity < 50%

Warning came directly after take off at 3 feet
That's close to Standard Day. I would not think they would be an issue. I would if it were hotter out and the humidity was high too. However, something is causing the AC to "think" there is additional drag on the motor(s).

Do you have a test bench? If so, strap it down, take three props off and run her up to 50% power with the one prop. If you do or don't get the error move to the next motor. If this next motor does not throw the error, move on to next and test again. What we're doing is checking if there could be a bad/weak motor. If you get only one motor throwing the warning, then you have your answer. If it happens to more than one, I honestly can't say much more. If you get no errors on any of them, I would next try by installing the factory props on three and a CF on one, then do the whole process again. Keep trying different combinations - maybe with two OEM's and two CF's and run the rotation etc. = Four test runs w/this set up.

To really get a true bench reading/test, get a laser thermal meter at HomeCrapo (<$30) and start the process with only the OEM prop. Read the temp of each motor at the top of the casing center of the shaft and the casings edge after they have been running for ~30sec.

Write your findings down while keeping track of which motor is which. e.g. M1=65C, etc. ( M1 would be the left motor as if you were riding in it and M3 would be the back left ).

Collect this Data for all tests and post it. It will tell a lot about the efficiency of DJI motors and if you have one that is weak.
 
That's close to Standard Day. I would not think they would be an issue. I would if it were hotter out and the humidity was high too. However, something is causing the AC to "think" there is additional drag on the motor(s).

Do you have a test bench? If so, strap it down, take three props off and run her up to 50% power with the one prop. If you do or don't get the error move to the next motor. If this next motor does not throw the error, move on to next and test again. What we're doing is checking if there could be a bad/weak motor. If you get only one motor throwing the warning, then you have your answer. If it happens to more than one, I honestly can't say much more. If you get no errors on any of them, I would next try by installing the factory props on three and a CF on one, then do the whole process again. Keep trying different combinations - maybe with two OEM's and two CF's and run the rotation etc. = Four test runs w/this set up.

To really get a true bench reading/test, get a laser thermal meter at HomeCrapo (<$30) and start the process with only the OEM prop. Read the temp of each motor at the top of the casing center of the shaft and the casings edge after they have been running for ~30sec.

Write your findings down while keeping track of which motor is which. e.g. M1=65C, etc. ( M1 would be the left motor as if you were riding in it and M3 would be the back left ).

Collect this Data for all tests and post it. It will tell a lot about the efficiency of DJI motors and if you have one that is weak.
Unfortunately that is not a good/reliable test.
By throttling up the motors you are not bypassing the flight controller. This means you may run into integral wind up where the FC is attempting to alter the attitude of the aircraft but nothing is changing. The accelerometers and gyros will report no change to the attitude of the Inspire even though the motors are running and 'trying' to alter or stabilise position. This in turn will make the FC apply more throttle input to the esc's and thus accelerate the motors until eventually they will max out.
 
Unfortunately that is not a good/reliable test.
By throttling up the motors you are not bypassing the flight controller. This means you may run into integral wind up where the FC is attempting to alter the attitude of the aircraft but nothing is changing. The accelerometers and gyros will report no change to the attitude of the Inspire even though the motors are running and 'trying' to alter or stabilise position. This in turn will make the FC apply more throttle input to the esc's and thus accelerate the motors until eventually they will max out.
Read it again we're not testing the ESC's or the EMU, ect. We're "bench testing" the thermal output of the motors based on a baseline (eom props). I've been doing this for years and it is the only practice used by dozens of fleet techs everywhere.

If you have an issue with this method, then seperate the power arms and unplug the motors (located mid point in the primary arm) and run them directly off a battery. I didn't post this method because there is much more involved than just this so I'm assuming you know what your doing and have $20k invested in equipment to do so. Everyone else please use the original method I posted ;)

Again, just trying to share the knowledge to help.
 
Read it again we're not testing the ESC's or the EMU, ect. We're "bench testing" the thermal output of the motors based on a baseline (eom props). I've been doing this for years and it is the only practice used by dozens of fleet techs everywhere.

If you have an issue with this method, then seperate the power arms and unplug the motors (located mid point in the primary arm) and run them directly off a battery. I didn't post this method because there is much more involved than just this so I'm assuming you know what your doing and have $20k invested in equipment to do so. Everyone else please use the original method I posted ;)

Again, just trying to share the knowledge to help.
Read mine again.
At no point did I mention testing the esc's.
I simply mentioned the potential for integral wind up.
If you do not understand what that is - look it up.
Have a nice day.
 
Read mine again.
At no point did I mention testing the esc's.
I simply mentioned the potential for integral wind up.
If you do not understand what that is - look it up.
Have a nice day.
LOL. Nice. For those who didn't think of this: You would switch your transmitter out of p mode (panic mode LOL) while bench testing and you wouldn't have the issue @The Editor mentioned ;)
 
LOL. Nice. For those who didn't think of this: You would switch your transmitter out of p mode (panic mode LOL) while bench testing and you wouldn't have the issue @The Editor mentioned ;)
P mode has absolutely nothing to with it.
Whether you are in P-GPS of Atti mode, the accelerometers and gyros are still active (there is no manual mode available on the platform).
With both the MEMS and accelerometers giving closed loop feedback to the FC, integral wind up is a very real problem within a PID tuned environment.
 
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