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I have a big issues in the way DJI ask you do deep cycle your batteries.

I find the device working very well what I have been doing is flying the battery down some then attach it to the discharger when the discharge is shut off usually in 15 min, I then attach it to the remote control and let that drain it down

when you hook it to the remote control within 5 minutes the battery shuts down
 
Hi, Sorry my ignorance, I don't know how to override the autolanding at 20%, so I wonder if you can cycle your battery by letting the motor ON but while you are at the ground??
Maybe this consumes energy too slow??
 
Hi, Sorry my ignorance, I don't know how to override the autolanding at 20%, so I wonder if you can cycle your battery by letting the motor ON but while you are at the ground??
Maybe this consumes energy too slow??
See above note from jhardway (big thanks). Using the battery to RC cable to run them down "the last little bit" makes sense and does not put any stress on the craft or the battery. Running the motors just adds useless hours to your craft and the draw can overheat the battery (which will already be warm from full discharge) when it is so depleted.
 
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See above note from jhardway (big thanks). Using the battery to RC cable to run them down "the last little bit" makes sense and does not put any stress on the craft or the battery. Running the motors just adds useless hours to your craft and the draw can overheat the battery (which will already be warm from full discharge) when it is so depleted.
wow, interesting! Thank you Bham Jack for the heads up!
 
skjackaerial - As I have been looking for a better way to deep cycle these things I found the following on amazon, very similar to Derman's but more produced with sometype of circuit board involved. They say its for a phantom but over all they are produced for a 3-6s batteries. cost is $19.


Have one coming over the next few days, when I get it I will let you all know my thoughts.

Thanks j, just received mine and discharging now....going for the full discharge to 3.5/cell..... that light gets hot and bright!!!!

So far I've fully discharged 2 batteries...TB 48 took 58 min, TB 47 took 40 min. Device shut off automatically as advertised....Caution! Bulb gets very hot, do not rest it on a flammable surface...
 
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Calibration Comparison New TB48 Batteries
3rdParty “Intelligent Discharger” vs DJI “in craft” protocol
Battery A - Brand new, used device to run down to auto shutoff (supposedly 3.5). Charged Full after resting for hour+ to insure at room temperature.
Battery B - Single previous charge depleted to about 24% from flight, used Inspire 1 craft (powered on only) to run down to auto shutoff per DJI recommendation). Charged Full after resting for hour+ to insure at room temperature.

Stored both batteries in identical ambient condition for 24 hours. Installed each in craft within minutes of each other (turned craft on only, no other operation), read GO App data for the batteries

Bat A 100% 5700/5700 25.9v 4.31-4.32 cells
Bat B 100% 5700/5700 26.0v 4.32-4.33 cells

Caution - the current through the third party device 35w bulb creates an extremely hot environment and even the procedure suggested by the supplier (“keep away from any flammable objects”) is inadequate. In my case the device was carefully isolated in an open area (at room temperature) and even so the bulb’s heat melted and charred the plastic connector where its leaders are connected to the wires (see graphic). If you are going to use this device it is imperative that you design a heat sink (like a 4” length of aluminum pipe) for the device e and a method to insure the light remains in an upright sate and cannot fall to side.

Conclusion - since smart battery logic ultimately decides when to shut down theoretically should be little difference in “end result”. That means speed of discharge (current draw) is biggest factor between options. There is no meaningful difference in end result, both batteries end up with full 5700 capacity. The only difference would be time required to discharge and dangers of 3rd party device.

Open questions is battery warranty affected by using 3rd party device, is the higher discharge amp rate for the “tail end” depletion of the 3rd party device “healthy” for the battery life compared to the slower discharge rate from the inspire simply being “on” (no motors - just logic and radio draw)?

3rd Party Amp Draw TB48 is at 26v full (@4.33v / cell) versus 21v empty (@3.5v / cell)
Mode 1 - Storage voltage - discharge from full to 23.1v (3.85/cell) is average 24.5V so @35watt (bulb) average draw is 1.43 amps
Mode 2 (click button on circuit board) - discharge used battery at 22v average so @35watt (bulb) average draw is 1.5 amps.

Recommendation - Since full discharge is an occasional routine maintenance item I would highly recommend using the DJI recommended procedure at home when you have the time, a battery can be inserted, craft turned on and left. It does not require constant personal monitoring during the entire process demanded by the dangers of the 3rd party device.

FYI - 3rd Party Device Instructions I found online, no edits (device just came in a baggie - no instructions)

As we know,lithium polymer battery used by RC aeromodelling can not be stored in full voltage, full power status should not more than a day. battery is always in full status, it is very easy to Swell, reducing the discharge Ability and battery capacity, may be directly scrapped.
Battery will automatically diacharge to lower than 3.85V pluged with discharger( lit the 35Wh lamp) when voltage is higher than Storaging voltage 3.85V, convenient and safe are not afraid to discharge too much. Greatly extend battery life!
Discharger can automatically identify the number of battery cells (3s-6s), short horn sound N times (N = number of battery cells).
Intelligent battery after booting, discharger finish reporting the number of cells, automatically to discharge, the default discharge mode is mode 1 (mode 1 discharge to saving voltage N * 3.85V, blue lights flashing slowly for 1 time), finish discharging, the bulb goes off while the speaker rang 5 times faster, indicator light is on, and you can discharge the next set of replaceable batteries. Phantom battery discharge from full power to save voltage is about 35 minutes.
During discharge process short press the button once, automatically switch to Mode 2 (Mode 2 will deeply discharge to N * 3.5V, blue lights flash 2 times), finish discharging the lamp will turn off while the horn rang 5 times quickly, can replace next set of battery. Mode 1 Mode 2 can freely switch (under voltage permitting)
Intelligent Discharger.png
 
Anyone know why my bulbs keep burning out?

I have an Inspire TB47 & TB48 ordered two different dischargers on Amazon from different sellers. Bulb lights up then burns out. You can see filament broken inside. Maybe I got a newer revision that's defective? I purchased from different sellers but they both have www.facalhobby.com printed on rear of circuit board.
 
i personally hope a better solution arrives - these devices are cheap and dangerous. Likely in your case a bad lot of bulbs is involved (not up to the load spec). Perhaps the circuits on the little cards will work better by relacing the bulb with a load that does not draw as much amperage. This would take a little longer but hopefully be more reliable and not generate as much heat.
 
The simplest way and the fastest way to cycle your battery... is to fly the battery down... bring up the battery display... over ride the auto land .. no problem... i have 12 batteries... 3 DJI chargers... never had a problem.... you don't need charging stations... buy some extra batteries instead....

Hey since you have 12 batteries can I borrow a few? lol
 
I have been using 2 of these dischargers to put my batteries in storage mode and also for speeding up the calibration procedure when new firmware comes up.

They are risky to use with bulbs because they heat up to around 300C degrees and the socket (mini tamiya type) comes with the circuit burns and melts after couple of uses.


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I have added plug-in screw connectors to the circuits to make it easier to change the bulb sockets when they melt.

Then I found porcelain bulb holders at a hardware store and started to use them.


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Then came up with an idea of making a dummy load to use with the circuit instead of using a bulb.
I was familiar with converting PC power supply units to use as power supplies for RC chargers by using heatsinked power resistors as dummy loads.

So started testing with the power resistors;


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First test with 50W 4.7R; heated up to 130C degrees but the discharge rate was not same as 12V 35W bulb;

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So decided to go for lower ohm value and bigger surface to create a larger contact to cool down easier;

2 x 50W 6.8R in parallel connection, found an old CPU fan heatsink to be used as a cooler

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Drilled holes on heat sink to match the ears of the resistors;

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Inner ears needed to cut in half to fit;

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Applied thermal grease for perfect contact;

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Screws on;

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Soldered in parallel with thick brass wire;

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Mounted fan on top and soldered it parallel to the brass wires;

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Soldered 12awg wires for connection to the discharger circuit;

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The final;

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Heats up to around 100C degrees and takes around 20 minutes to full discharge (not storage mode) a fully charged TB48 which is same discharge rate as flying with Inspire. I may have used different resistors to discharge faster but I did not want to overload the battery by trying to get higher discharge rates.

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Sorry for long post, hope it will be useful for you...
 
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Perhaps the circuits on the little cards will work better by relacing the bulb with a load that does not draw as much amperage. This would take a little longer but hopefully be more reliable and not generate as much heat.

I see Amazon has some 12V 20W bulbs I will give it a try. Thank you for your suggestion!
 

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