Inspire 2 Battery Button Stuck
- Thread starter olliedale
- Start date
I had the same issue with the battery button. I had to take the casing off.
After pulling the button assembly out, it was easy to “reset” it if you will. Just gotta be careful putting the buttons back in. But if you break the crap inside. That’s $180.
After pulling the button assembly out, it was easy to “reset” it if you will. Just gotta be careful putting the buttons back in. But if you break the crap inside. That’s $180.
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Battery Compartments are one of the more involved replacements (along with main controllers). Mark where everything goes and don’t sneeze!
Well, I did the new update to 1.02.0.300 and to get the battery update, and the release button broke. Center pin remains down which is the left side latch. Just great! Four months out of so pay to fix it I guess.
Anyone do a write up as to the replacement procedure? Part is $100 (Part 17). Can't tell from photos if it also has the button unit as part of it?
Anyone do a write up as to the replacement procedure? Part is $100 (Part 17). Can't tell from photos if it also has the button unit as part of it?
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In all one unit so you should be fine, the plastic bit that holds the spring has likely snapped. It’s known to happen.
This happened to me a few months back a member on the forum here dougcjohn helped me with the instructions below... if you need any help or have any questions feel free to PM me and I will give you my phone number. feel free to call me.
- Note the screws, there are some screws the same size with different head shapes (thicker & thinner).
- I used a nice sized magnet screw tray to allow me to keep the screw groups separate.
- Removing TOP fuselage, need to unhook 3 small connectors (2 on 1 side, 1 on the other) connecting to Rt & Lf sides on the small main board attached to the ft of battery center section. They are under 2 small pieces of shroud trim (Lf & Rt) that simply lift off to release shroud tabs. Top Fuselage will lift off with a slight forward and back movement.
- Under Nose Cone, Removing 4 antenna connectors, take note of positions on nose electronics. I snap a quick photo for reference as needed.
- When disamb of Upper & Lower section, take note of 2 hidden screws under top center trim before you attempt to push halves apart.
- When separating Top & Bottom sections, take note of wire routing under belly shroud and note which wire is on top, helps when going back together and not pinch wires. I didn’t the first time and took a bit to get it to nicely fit under shroud properly. These wires run to sm main board attached to Ft battery section.
- 5B) When pushing the Upper & Lower section apart, it comes apart without a lot of downward pressure. If it won’t move, recheck for screws or connectors remaining holding the two halves together.
- When to the stage of removing the small main board off the ft of the battery center section. You’ll notice the 2 large battery terminals on the board with yellow terminal sealant coming from behind the main board. These are extremely hard to remove without risk of damaging the board, these large gauge wires run to the battery center section. You can cut these wires just behind the main board terminals to allow you to finish removing the main board and then when in hand, gently cut the sealant off and remove the terminal stubs. You new Battery Center Section will have new wire terminals to push on these open terminals.
- Take note of the large gauge battery wires under the main terminal plate, routing and placement to avoid pinching.
Another helpful source is a YouTube on Gimbal repair that explains the majority of the complex steps, but you’ll need to slow the YouTube down several factors because they speed it up so fast you can’t see the little steps. The YouTube is going after the ft gimbal part, but it gets you past the tricky parts and just leaves the clear steps to reach the battery section. Slowing it down shows the steps I personally think they were attempting to hide so you wouldn’t perform yourself.
On YouTube: go to the “setting” icon on bottom right, select Playback speed and slow it down so you can watch the procedure.
Watch up to 1:20 seconds into video… the rest doesn’t apply to the battery center section. Leave the Nose electronics in place, wasted steps for Battery Section. After you get the top half section to separate, the remaining steps aren’t bad to get the battery center section removed.
I took photos of the connections, if you need them I can try to dig them up, I also put some notes into a word doc Ill also try to find. very helpful as I put the project down for a week to calm my nerves , those pesky gold antenna connectors had me stressed out. I thought I was going to have to buy a new electronics board, iirc it was the battery center board? I was going to just buy a new one, gave it one more try and got the connectors off... wheeeeew!
also just a side note I preordered my i2 way back when, the battery button was always kind of wonky, the new part corrected that. seemed like mine was a little screwy from the factory. was always very stiff and didn't always lock properly.
Thanks PatrickP !!!
I have a can of DeOxit Gold that is sold at Guitar World since Radio Shack disappeared. I also ordered a Wiha #6 and #9 Torx driver too since they seem to fit better with this electronic stuff. I have some Japanese JIS screwdrivers that fit the cross-point screws better then the Phillips drivers too so they shouldn't strip out. Guess I'm set once the part shows up which might take a while with the holiday.
I've run into the DJI wire glue before having been into my old P4 remote. I remember cutting it off the wires in it and wondering if I was going to by a new RC, but I got through the stuff. Silicon may have been easier to dig through, but that DJI stuff might have been some sort of hot glue. Dunno.
I think I'll take photos too.
I was also wondering about that magnetic screw tray I saw in prior photos on here and if it would magnetize the screws and give sundry compass errors? Maybe an egg carton or double-sided tape instead?
I have a can of DeOxit Gold that is sold at Guitar World since Radio Shack disappeared. I also ordered a Wiha #6 and #9 Torx driver too since they seem to fit better with this electronic stuff. I have some Japanese JIS screwdrivers that fit the cross-point screws better then the Phillips drivers too so they shouldn't strip out. Guess I'm set once the part shows up which might take a while with the holiday.
I've run into the DJI wire glue before having been into my old P4 remote. I remember cutting it off the wires in it and wondering if I was going to by a new RC, but I got through the stuff. Silicon may have been easier to dig through, but that DJI stuff might have been some sort of hot glue. Dunno.
I think I'll take photos too.
I was also wondering about that magnetic screw tray I saw in prior photos on here and if it would magnetize the screws and give sundry compass errors? Maybe an egg carton or double-sided tape instead?
Oh, BTW the part 17 does come with everything you need including the buttons, (its a pretty significant piece) , unless you have to replace the battery board. The wire glue......yikes.. painful memories. had me shook for a bit. once I had the glue removed and could freely turn the connectors, I mangled the top of those gold connections so bad I was sure I was going to need a new battery board, you'll see what I mean! but got it without replacing it.I wasn't sure if it was a 500$ or 50$ part, never can tell with DJI 
but I wasn't very expensive if you do need to replace it, I think 60$.
man I love deoxit, bailed me out of a few binds with corroded electrical connectors , I originally purchased it for my P2 batteries and connectors , but seems like I use it weekly for something or other...
I don't remember off the top of my head what TORX sizes it required. I didn't run into any issues with the compass. this job was a weird combination between a car and iPhone motherboard repair if you run into a bind feel free to give me a call.
but I wasn't very expensive if you do need to replace it, I think 60$.man I love deoxit, bailed me out of a few binds with corroded electrical connectors , I originally purchased it for my P2 batteries and connectors , but seems like I use it weekly for something or other...
I don't remember off the top of my head what TORX sizes it required. I didn't run into any issues with the compass. this job was a weird combination between a car and iPhone motherboard repair
if you run into a bind feel free to give me a call.Oh, BTW the part 17 does come with everything you need including the buttons, (its a pretty significant piece) , unless you have to replace the battery board. The wire glue......yikes.. painful memories. had me shook for a bit. once I had the glue removed and could freely turn the connectors, I mangled the top of those gold connections so bad I was sure I was going to need a new battery board, you'll see what I mean! but got it without replacing it.I wasn't sure if it was a 500$ or 50$ part, never can tell with DJI
man I love deoxit, bailed me out of a few binds with corroded electrical connectors , I originally purchased it for my P2 batteries and connectors , but seems like I use it weekly for something or other...
I don't remember off the top of my head what TORX sizes it required. I didn't run into any issues with the compass. this job was a weird combination between a car and iPhone motherboard repair
Well, mine didn't come with any buttons. I'm guessing the buttons are part of the top shell, and they press down into this battery compartment affair for the mechanism? It didn't come with the little plastic cover for the SSD drive either (I still have the old one.).
It did have a baggie with eight #9 Torx screws and two small JIS head screws (They are JIS heads and not Phillips!). I got the Vessel JIS crosspoint drivers already for the small "Phillips-like" screws. I added some German Wiha Torx drivers since they seem to hold onto the Torx heads better without cammng-out (i.e. stripping). The Vessel tools page describes the differences here: JIS Crosspoint vs. Phillips Head
The Torx ones already came with some blue threadlocker already applied to them. I put a smidgen of Elmer's Glue on the threads of the JIS screws and let it dry so they will bind on reinstalling (The "Safe-for-plastic threadlocker" didn't show up from Amazon so I'l use the Elmer's School Glue in the meantime per some RC modeler's hobby board.). I already had a massive plastic failure using the Locktite Blue 245 on some other thing which cracked and crumbled the plastic threaded boss in a few days.
Tomorrow's job will be this thing. I want to dig into the old one later, if this surgery goes well, and see what has broke within it too.
Well SOB!
One Torx #8 screw that was heavily Loctited with blue into the top of the servo ahead of the battery compartment snapped off midway down the threads. The screws are tight and I'm soaking others with 91% alcohol and letting them sit a while. Torx bit fits well, but handle is too small to get any torque. Some other Torx bits fit loose an likely would striped the heads off. I may touch the tops with a soldering iron too to soften the Loctite that is also sloshed around the five wells the Torx 8 screws sit in.
The two side panels held with small crosspoint screws, needed to get to the three wire connectors from the top cover, are also glued (taped) to the main control board and need to be pried off.
Cripes!
One Torx #8 screw that was heavily Loctited with blue into the top of the servo ahead of the battery compartment snapped off midway down the threads. The screws are tight and I'm soaking others with 91% alcohol and letting them sit a while. Torx bit fits well, but handle is too small to get any torque. Some other Torx bits fit loose an likely would striped the heads off. I may touch the tops with a soldering iron too to soften the Loctite that is also sloshed around the five wells the Torx 8 screws sit in.
The two side panels held with small crosspoint screws, needed to get to the three wire connectors from the top cover, are also glued (taped) to the main control board and need to be pried off.
Cripes!
yikes, stripped broken screws are the worst. wish you the best on your surgery. I know it was quite nerve racking in my case. hopefully you have better luck on the antenna wires than i did.
Yep. This ain't sumptin' when yer looking for fun!
There is still a few threads on the screw that busted off, maybe enough to grab a bit along with the other that is intact. I don't know why they slobbered so much Loctite on the thing. I used some 91% alcohol and let it sit for an hour while adding drops every so often. Then the #8 Wiha Torx tip snapped off on another one so I had to go to Home Depot and they had a Husky driver set with a #8 bit in the handle for $6 and it got me through the rest of the dismantling mess. You can see all the blue Loctite in the photo below in back of the servo motor that connects to the upper battery compartment (Red circle shows the busted off screw location.). The Wiha drivers fit best, but I just cannot get any torque with their small handle - amounts to trying to turn a toothpick for a handle. The Husky has a bigger handle.
The four antenna wires were snap-ins and pretty easy to pry off - if those are the ones near the front of the craft on the right side of the video processor? The two big ones on the motherboard behind the servo that had the yellow glue on them were stuck tight. I used the DeOxit Gold and an X-acto blade and tweezers to dig it off both connectors until they swiveled. I tried to pry one off the mounting washer (?) and the blade broke. Got an idea to make a double-sided pry bar out of an old rusty wrench for maybe 1/8" nuts. I filed a sharp taper tip like a chisel and pried it under the plug and off it came pretty easily. Did same for opposite side. The connections say Ground (GND) and Power (PWR) and the wires were pretty big.
That black plastic floor pan under the servo motor had four small screws in it. Bad part is the rear rubber gimbal dampner has to come off to get the pan out. I cannot get the dampner back in now, and watching the DJI video on them shows the replacements have a long tip that you can pull the thing through from the top, down through the gimbal arm, and then cut it off. So I had to order a set of 10 off Amazon for $35. Another wait....and I need a break from this thing.
There also was a long wire with with a zillion connections on it wrapped in some metallic tape from the battery box that goes into the left side of the camera controller. I guess it just snaps in and was tight to get out (A plastic pry tool helped.). With all those tiny connections, I can see why these camera act up at times as they seem pretty fragile.
Thing is pretty neat the way the legs and landing motor servo combo separates from the main body.
I didn't find a set of spares in the box. I think my old P4 came a some. The one I took out looks like it has a flat as the middle bubble is wrinkled. Stretching it may make it flatter so I ordered a new set via Amazon Prime so they should show up Tuesday. Hope I don't forget something before then.
Opps! Need to put some silicon on those two connectors on the MB that had the glue on them. I doubt if they will come out and probably just for vibration.
Did you use any new Loctite on reassembly? The new kit came with eight screws already with it on them for the bottom. Have to think where the two smaller ones that came with it on go to as well (Maybe for the four lug power connector on the bottom frame?). I was thinking of only using the safe for plastic (Permatex) threadlocker when it shows up probably Tuesday as well. Don't need any more busted bolts.
Photo shows the new battery compartment installed. and the old one with the latch stuck at the bottom behind it. Haven't figured a way to get the large CE label off the old one restuck to the new one. You'd think they would have stuck one on the new compartment. I may just forget about it.
Anyhoo, what a job! If DJI seemingly charges $135 an hour, wonder how long it takes their guys to do one?
I tried to get into the battery box to see what caused the failure, but seems it might be glued together once past the sundry external stuff screwed onto it. Something is indeed rattling around inside it so some plastic piece probably gave up.
I'm amazed at how the connector to the SSD card cable has some 25 connection on it. Pretty small stuff! Fwiw, the connector plugs into the left side of the camera control unit up front and just snaps in. Only thing salvageable might be the battery connection board and terminals on the far right and some rubber gasket under it.
I'm amazed at how the connector to the SSD card cable has some 25 connection on it. Pretty small stuff! Fwiw, the connector plugs into the left side of the camera control unit up front and just snaps in. Only thing salvageable might be the battery connection board and terminals on the far right and some rubber gasket under it.
Back together again. Fired it up and it seems to work okay too. Yay!
I found a website where s guy shows you how to remove broken or stuck screws in eyeglasses. The extractor he used I have in my toolkit from I don't know where, maybe a tool show at a RC hobby meetup. Anyway, with a lot of 91% alcohol and soaking the busted one, the tool began to turn a bit back and forth and finally it came out. The replacements that come with the Battery Compartment fit in that spot too (I found I didn't need to remove the ones in back of the servo, just the three behind them.), but I had one in my junk pile of screws where I'm always taking stuff apart and keeping the screws and springs just in case.
Optician's screw extractor video:
Screw extractor tools for purchase: Precision Screw Extractor Set / USA
If you keep the Loctited screws wet with 91% alcohol for several hours, you may not snap the head off like I did and not need the above extractors.
The rubber dampener was a bit tough to pull through the plastic floor pan and base and through the gimbal so I put a bit of water and soap on it. The old one definitely had a flat and even boiling it in water never made it round again. Might have gotten torn on removal.
I did find the toolkit from Amazon helped a lot in this job, along with the spring swivel portion to access the bottom Torx #6 screw on the MB. I used the Torx 6, 8, and 9 bits, along with the 2mm and 2.5mm hex bits. The kit has some plastic prying tools that are good for all the tiny connectors. The Vessel JIS screwdrivers 00 and 0 were used the most.
Toolkit here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRLGK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The plastic side panels ahead of the battery box as well as the plastic floor pan have some sticky tape that holds them. I cut some Scotch Double-Sided tape in 1/8" wide strips and applied them in their place.
I'd recommend a dab of Loctite Purple on the screws that go into metal and not the blue that is too strong for the small sizes. Loctite suggests the Blue for screws larger than 1/4" and all the Inspire 2 ones are smaller than that and why it's possible to snap off one. Also, don't use Loctite around plastic threads as it will crack them (Lesson learned elsewhere.). There is a Loctite that is safe for plastics (Pricey too!) and Vibra-Tite sells it in their VC-series bottles. Given DJI uses so much of the blue stuff, you might not even need to use any as they bind up well as is.
I also used some Almond Colored GE Silicon from hardware store and swabbed that onto the two battery connections that had that stuff on them on the MB. Looks like factory did it too.
I haven't gotten the CE label off the side of the old battery case to stick it on the new one on the left side. I may try a heat gun later and see if I can peel it off.
Back to why the thing broke, the front part of the battery compartment is a pot aluminum casted piece which must have some prongs that go into the two plastic side pieces where the battery fits. I pulled the piece off under sheer strength and busted the pot metal part clear of the plastic sides. The remaining ot metal seems to act as staples to hold the two sides together. I may need to take it to the scroller saw and see if I can saw the stapled parts clear to get the side cases open.
Anyway, photos below show the screw extractor tip and removing the busted piece. The old deflated rubber dampener. Some of the dismantling of the battery box and the metal pieces in one end holding the sides together.
Whew! Glad that's done. Not bad if I didn't snap the screw, but it is time consuming first time dong it.
I found a website where s guy shows you how to remove broken or stuck screws in eyeglasses. The extractor he used I have in my toolkit from I don't know where, maybe a tool show at a RC hobby meetup. Anyway, with a lot of 91% alcohol and soaking the busted one, the tool began to turn a bit back and forth and finally it came out. The replacements that come with the Battery Compartment fit in that spot too (I found I didn't need to remove the ones in back of the servo, just the three behind them.), but I had one in my junk pile of screws where I'm always taking stuff apart and keeping the screws and springs just in case.
Optician's screw extractor video:
If you keep the Loctited screws wet with 91% alcohol for several hours, you may not snap the head off like I did and not need the above extractors.
The rubber dampener was a bit tough to pull through the plastic floor pan and base and through the gimbal so I put a bit of water and soap on it. The old one definitely had a flat and even boiling it in water never made it round again. Might have gotten torn on removal.
I did find the toolkit from Amazon helped a lot in this job, along with the spring swivel portion to access the bottom Torx #6 screw on the MB. I used the Torx 6, 8, and 9 bits, along with the 2mm and 2.5mm hex bits. The kit has some plastic prying tools that are good for all the tiny connectors. The Vessel JIS screwdrivers 00 and 0 were used the most.
Toolkit here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRLGK5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The plastic side panels ahead of the battery box as well as the plastic floor pan have some sticky tape that holds them. I cut some Scotch Double-Sided tape in 1/8" wide strips and applied them in their place.
I'd recommend a dab of Loctite Purple on the screws that go into metal and not the blue that is too strong for the small sizes. Loctite suggests the Blue for screws larger than 1/4" and all the Inspire 2 ones are smaller than that and why it's possible to snap off one. Also, don't use Loctite around plastic threads as it will crack them (Lesson learned elsewhere.). There is a Loctite that is safe for plastics (Pricey too!) and Vibra-Tite sells it in their VC-series bottles. Given DJI uses so much of the blue stuff, you might not even need to use any as they bind up well as is.
I also used some Almond Colored GE Silicon from hardware store and swabbed that onto the two battery connections that had that stuff on them on the MB. Looks like factory did it too.
I haven't gotten the CE label off the side of the old battery case to stick it on the new one on the left side. I may try a heat gun later and see if I can peel it off.
Back to why the thing broke, the front part of the battery compartment is a pot aluminum casted piece which must have some prongs that go into the two plastic side pieces where the battery fits. I pulled the piece off under sheer strength and busted the pot metal part clear of the plastic sides. The remaining ot metal seems to act as staples to hold the two sides together. I may need to take it to the scroller saw and see if I can saw the stapled parts clear to get the side cases open.
Anyway, photos below show the screw extractor tip and removing the busted piece. The old deflated rubber dampener. Some of the dismantling of the battery box and the metal pieces in one end holding the sides together.
Whew! Glad that's done. Not bad if I didn't snap the screw, but it is time consuming first time dong it.
I took a saw and some pry bars to the battery compartment to see what causes the battery button release to fail.
I discovered much of that thing is secured with the aluminum backing plate that holds the circuit board ahead of the compartment, as well as a lot of snaps and maybe glue as well. Some of the internal parts are secured by melted plastic rivets like the slide covers. It will not come apart for service.
The part that fails is a small spring post that breaks off from the side cover and then gets pushed into the sleeve the release button slide drops down into. The slide is also part of the triangular lock on the outside of the case. Once that post snaps off, the button goes down and it sticks there. I could pull it up with a hook, but the post itself is damaged. I could see mine stuck in one of the two slots in the slide cover that is hot riveted to the case.
The rectangular piece that pushes the battery out of the holder at the front of the case has two springs attached to it. Both posts on mine snapped off as well so the black rectagular pieve was free to move. It might work with one spring and you could pull it out too, but if the pushbutton slide post breaks off, you're sunk.
So three parts gave up on mine: Two of the eject spring posts, and the pushbutton sping's lift post that causes the center button you push on the outside of the drone to stay down.
Chalk it up to flimsy plastic.
Casey-
I discovered much of that thing is secured with the aluminum backing plate that holds the circuit board ahead of the compartment, as well as a lot of snaps and maybe glue as well. Some of the internal parts are secured by melted plastic rivets like the slide covers. It will not come apart for service.
The part that fails is a small spring post that breaks off from the side cover and then gets pushed into the sleeve the release button slide drops down into. The slide is also part of the triangular lock on the outside of the case. Once that post snaps off, the button goes down and it sticks there. I could pull it up with a hook, but the post itself is damaged. I could see mine stuck in one of the two slots in the slide cover that is hot riveted to the case.
The rectangular piece that pushes the battery out of the holder at the front of the case has two springs attached to it. Both posts on mine snapped off as well so the black rectagular pieve was free to move. It might work with one spring and you could pull it out too, but if the pushbutton slide post breaks off, you're sunk.
So three parts gave up on mine: Two of the eject spring posts, and the pushbutton sping's lift post that causes the center button you push on the outside of the drone to stay down.
Chalk it up to flimsy plastic.
Casey-
