Inspire 2 Motor - Screw Dimensions
- Thread starter alexanderlochmeier
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If you can't get the screw out, the other options would be to send it in to a repair shop or buy a prop motor (I think they are about $50) but if you buy a prop motor, you still have to take off some screws on the bottom of the motor which might have loc tite on them too so you might end up in the same spot as you are now.
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Finally got it out. Held a soldering gun to it for 5 minutes and used a pair of vice grips. The motor makes a noise now when I turn it. The other are silent. I fired up the motors and they sound the same running. I have one last set that's not moving. I'm debating whether to eat the cost of these CF propellers and stay with originals or see if I can get them out. Using the soldering gun on them for a minute did nothing. Not sure I want to go thru that again.
A good set of drivers is a must, DJI use the cheapest bolts.
Try using the rubber band over the tip, impossible to strip the bolt.
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Thanks for that tip. But I'm wondering if after holding a soldering gun on the screw if the rubber band won't just snap. I want to try for this last set but I don't want to go thru a last repeat.
Its easiest if
You comfortable removing the motors?
You should be able to get the job done like everyone else.
You comfortable removing the motors?
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slim.slamma - thanks for your advice about the rubber band.
I got the last set out. They were actually T8 not T9. I held a super hot soldering gun on the screw for 40 seconds and put the drive on a rubber band. Worked like a charm. Somehow slightly melted part of the center cap but a little shaving fixed that and the old prop fits fine. Got all the XOAR props attached. Now to get up the nerve to fly it. A little concerned about that one motor.
I have to give a serious shout out to Florida Drone Supply. They express shipped me 2 sets of prop quick releases at no charge. Not even shipping. Truly nice folks.
Thanks for everyone's help thru this. It's greatly appreciated. Now I know exactly how to walk someone else thru it!
I got the last set out. They were actually T8 not T9. I held a super hot soldering gun on the screw for 40 seconds and put the drive on a rubber band. Worked like a charm. Somehow slightly melted part of the center cap but a little shaving fixed that and the old prop fits fine. Got all the XOAR props attached. Now to get up the nerve to fly it. A little concerned about that one motor.
I have to give a serious shout out to Florida Drone Supply. They express shipped me 2 sets of prop quick releases at no charge. Not even shipping. Truly nice folks.
Thanks for everyone's help thru this. It's greatly appreciated. Now I know exactly how to walk someone else thru it!
That’s how I stripped one of my bolts using the wrong driver. So hopefully lesson learned. The motor can be easily replaced. Take a deep breath and let me know when your ready.
Don’t fly with a damaged motor, if it’s making noise, change it.
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Motor doesn't seem to be damaged at all. Flew it without the camera as a precaution staying under 10 feet and just turning in circles and yawing left/right. It seems to be fine. Whew....
But, on another note, I'm getting an error message with the XOAR props. The RC says not to use high altitude props in low altitude.
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Couple of things. The blade mount bolts are supposed to be T8 but, they are a sloppy T8. I just put 3 new mounts with new bolts & a brand new T8 socket was a little loose. I used a T9 to tighten them. So, not only are the bolts soft metal, quality control of the head size is not what it should be. Also, I used Locktite 243 on my bolts. The thread lock DJI uses is a gooey white type that is VERY sticky. I had to hold a 40 watt Ungar pencil tip soldering iron on my original bolts for 2 minutes. That worked on all but one. It came half way out & I spun the T8. Had to heat the bolt for two more minutes & (here's a useful tip) used a 2mm T-handle allen wrench to take it rest of way out. Don't try the 2mm allen wrench unless you've spun the torx in the bolt head. It's important to use a nut driver or a T-handle on these bolts. Even with the heat, you have to put a tremendous amount of downward pressure while your unscrewing the mount bolts & you can't if you use a small ratchet. NAPA sells a T8 T-handle wrench & Locktite 243
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The only way to loosen lock tight is with heat. Use at least a 40 watt soldering iron with a sharp pointed tip. Here is where patience comes in. You need to get the entire screw hot enough to melt or loosen the lock tight. With my 40 watt iron it took about five minutes per screw, then the screw came out very easy. If you need to apply excessive pressure to loosen the screw, you haven't got it hot enough and you will either strip the head, or brake the screw.
Again, once the screw is hot enough, it will come out easily, and don't grab it with your fingers, it will burn you, use tweezers.
Be sure to use lock tight when installing new screws, you don't want those screws backing out. You do not need to over tighten them when installing.
Again, once the screw is hot enough, it will come out easily, and don't grab it with your fingers, it will burn you, use tweezers.
Be sure to use lock tight when installing new screws, you don't want those screws backing out. You do not need to over tighten them when installing.
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