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My first attempt at video and editing. Would love some C&C.

I liked the concept of the video a lot.
And I do like your post. I also learn a lot of some of the comments of great forum fellows here!

Next time, camera on manual, check the histogram and point to a neutral (as far as light intensity) spot and make sure the curves are on the left. Color to NONE (or LOG, and use LUTs in postprocessing). Try to keep shutter speed close to 80 (if you want cinematic) with an ND filter, Auto WB. Frame rate and resolution to your liking, but I always use standard 4K/30fps, unless I need slowmotion afterwards.

But you definitely got 'the eye', you'll be great.
 
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I liked the concept of the video a lot.
And I do like your post. I also learn a lot of some of the comments of great forum fellows here!

Next time, camera on manual, check the histogram and point to a neutral (as far as light intensity) spot and make sure the curves are on the left. Color to NONE (or LOG, and use LUTs in postprocessing). Try to keep shutter speed close to 80 (if you want cinematic) with an ND filter, Auto WB. Frame rate and resolution to your liking, but I always use standard 4K/30fps, unless I need slowmotion afterwards.

But you definitely got 'the eye', you'll be great.
Hi lake_flyer,

Thanks for the praise and the tips :).
 
Nice job I think the comments above cover it.

Here's a thought for you when planning a shoot on a build site... Get action, people working, assembling etc. The service and craftsmanship as as much of the story as it the framing, materials and renderings.

One more... Shoot inside, turn corners, check out the points of interest. You don't need to fly indoors to get great footage. Put a GoPro on a long stick... It smooths out movement almost as good as a gimbal and you can simulate a lifting shot. Think 10-15 feet. It's really simple but very effective.

It's hard not to want to fly for all your footage but mix it up, you'll like the result.

Nice job again.
 
Nice job I think the comments above cover it.

Here's a thought for you when planning a shoot on a build site... Get action, people working, assembling etc. The service and craftsmanship as as much of the story as it the framing, materials and renderings.

One more... Shoot inside, turn corners, check out the points of interest. You don't need to fly indoors to get great footage. Put a GoPro on a long stick... It smooths out movement almost as good as a gimbal and you can simulate a lifting shot. Think 10-15 feet. It's really simple but very effective.

It's hard not to want to fly for all your footage but mix it up, you'll like the result.

Nice job again.
Thanks for the nice comments. I love the idea of mixing it up with a gopro on the inside
 
I personally find 4k 24fps instead of 30 the most cinematic setting. Also, I agree with smoother camera movements. I set my gains way down to like 30 for the camera. I also try to avoid moving the camera once im in a shot unless its a slow tilt up or down. I try to keep things as steady as I can, like if I was replicating shots of a cable cam, or a JIB.

I'm not an expert, but i've learned a lot thats helped. My CONSTRUCTIVE criticism is based on what's helped me, and comments i've received from my videos.

12 seconds in, The jerkyness can be resolved by flying in atti mode. The "wobble" you see is from the heli trying to stay locked in GPS. I know you're in a tight area there so it's understandable you were in P mode. This is where practice comes in during your spare time

26 seconds in it looks like the light areas in the dirt are a little over exposed. I would suggest the ND filter if you didnt use it, and or tapping the screen in the bright areas prior to your shot and locking it in with AE. You can keep it on auto as well, just make sure you use the auto metering before pressing record. Zebras are your friend, you can activate them in the settings. You can also fix this easily in post, in a program like final cut pro. There's awesome tutorials from lynda.com on basic color correction. Some of the videos from lynda are also found free on youtube. You can type in "color correction final cut pro" into google or similar. tons of great free vids.

I personally like a little faster paced movement though my videos. Even with my shots. Quick, keep the viewer interested, but long enough to get the point. I also agree with not transitioning unless it's different from the shot prior to the still shot placed in the video. I would try to consolidate more of the still shots together also, instead of cutting from video to still, back and forth. Maybe have all the stills at the end before credits roll? overall it looks good brother, and im in no way shape or form an expert like copter kids, but I do always tend to think, is this how they would be shooting it? lol what can I say they know what they're doing

I'm still learning as well, but so far this is what's helped me the most.
 
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I personally find 4k 24fps instead of 30 the most cinematic setting. Also, I agree with smoother camera movements. I set my gains way down to like 30 for the camera. I also try to avoid moving the camera once im in a shot unless its a slow tilt up or down. I try to keep things as steady as I can, like if I was replicating shots of a cable cam, or a JIB.

I'm not an expert, but i've learned a lot thats helped. My CONSTRUCTIVE criticism is based on what's helped me, and comments i've received from my videos.

12 seconds in, The jerkyness can be resolved by flying in atti mode. The "wobble" you see is from the heli trying to stay locked in GPS. I know you're in a tight area there so it's understandable you were in P mode. This is where practice comes in during your spare time

26 seconds in it looks like the light areas in the dirt are a little over exposed. I would suggest the ND filter if you didnt use it, and or tapping the screen in the bright areas prior to your shot and locking it in with AE. You can keep it on auto as well, just make sure you use the auto metering before pressing record. Zebras are your friend, you can activate them in the settings. You can also fix this easily in post, in a program like final cut pro. There's awesome tutorials from lynda.com on basic color correction. Some of the videos from lynda are also found free on youtube. You can type in "color correction final cut pro" into google or similar. tons of great free vids.

I personally like a little faster paced movement though my videos. Even with my shots. Quick, keep the viewer interested, but long enough to get the point. I also agree with not transitioning unless it's different from the shot prior to the still shot placed in the video. I would try to consolidate more of the still shots together also, instead of cutting from video to still, back and forth. Maybe have all the stills at the end before credits roll? overall it looks good brother, and im in no way shape or form an expert like copter kids, but I do always tend to think, is this how they would be shooting it? lol what can I say they know what they're doing

I'm still learning as well, but so far this is what's helped me the most.
Thanks so much for such a detailed critique. I'll definitely try what you suggested in my next attempt.
I shot almost 1 1/2 hours a bmx race and can't wait to start editing. Unfortunately work comes before play, and the when the play gets good, that becomes work (ie profitable) also.
 
Hi Jeremy,

All great points.
This was an unscheduled shoot. I was in the area, told a friend what I was doing, and he asked me to try and shoot the property. For both stills and video, so he could see what I could do for him on future projects.
The site was a mess, and definitely needed a clean-up.
Yup, I used the standard nd filter, and stupidly left the camera on auto. So, it's definitely overexposed in a few places.
Remember you will need to be licensed if you are going to do commercial work. Even if you work for free, the builder is making money from these images. Its commercial. Even amateur work like this is done to make money for people.
 
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