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New Firmware.... V01.0.0240. who's first...?

Forgot to add. Using the CSG control in tapflay works but the left dial scroll did not change the speed of the craft. Will test again.
 
When shooting in log format for most video cameras, the ISO gets locked. High end video cameras allow you to override the standard setting, but it does so by basically putting a note into the metadata which says that you've changed ISO. It's all a function of LOG or RAW formats.

Why lock it? Why 500?
 
To quote one of DJI's guys from another forum...

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To explain the native ISO of DLOG, let's start with exposure.

1. Exposure

In the imaging engineering point of view, a good exposure is to make the imaging of a 18% gray in the YCbCr domain to be 0.43~0.5 of the white level. So it's very important that the good exposure is measured after gamma, not linear.

2. Gamma

The cameras for photography traditionally use a standard gamma (e.g., Rec709) to compress the pixel to 8bit for digitalizing. So the good exposure means the linear image after a Rec709 gamma, 18% gray will be exposed to 110~128 if the white level is 255. However, as the sensor technology is evolving fast, the dynamic range of a morden sensor is far ahead of standadizing Rec709.

DR=20log10(FWC/Noise), FWC means the maximum capacity of the electrons, and noise means the noise level of dark.

A typical SONY APS-C sensor will have 84dB+ (14 fstops+) dynamic range. The goal of a gamma and exposure is to preserve as large information of the scene as possible, regarding both highlight and darkside. Whether to preserve the highlight or darkside is up to the photographer's tone. Things over-expsoured is forever gone and darkside with noise has chance to recover by strong image processing algorithms. Therefore, the camera vendors make a good balance between the highlight and darkside, by choosing a proper gamma curve, according to their capability of chip and characteristics of sensor.

3. LOG gamma

The cinematography is different from the photography. Cinema camera shoots RAW with 12/14/16 bits, and the footage is generated mostly by post processing software, which is far more powerful than the camera. So given the dynamic range, the highlight preserving is the first priority. Simply speaking, the camera will shoot a under-exposed image and store all the effective bits of the darkside thanks to the RAW, and recover the dark by strong post processing.

Here is a post to introduce the comparison between LOG gamma and standard gamma.
Log is the New Lin

If the LOG gamma is regarded as a kind of digital gain, the cinema camera tends to use the digital gain first. It breaks the rule of analog gain first. Actually the darkside will have dozens of dB amplified when using LOG gamma. Thanks to the strong signal processing algorithms in the post processing software, the darkside is still useable.

4. Native ISO

Usually, when applying the analog gain 1x and LOG gamma, we say the equivlent ISO is called native ISO.

After applying the DLOG, the 18% gray is 2.3 fstops above the normal gamma. Do you remember the exposure is mostly responsible for the 18% gray? Therefore, the exposure should be reduced 2.3ev in order to match the aperture/shutter of other cameras. In our case,

native ISO = Baseline ISO + 2.3ev = ISO500.

That means use the same aperture/shutter/iso, we will make the brightness of 18% gray be aligned with any cameras, no matter for photo or for cinema.

5. More-over

The question is if we can enable 2x/4x/... analog gain? I have to say it's depending on the FPN (fixed pattern noise) of the sensor. Some vendors lock the ISO of LOG while others provide limited but selectable ISOs.

DJI R&D team is testing 2x/4x analog gains with the representative customers. The footage should be projected to a large sceen, under a very strict inspection, to ensure the affordable artifects. So please be kindly patient and we might enable more ISOs in the future.
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The full discussion is at
How to expose correctly if D-Log is fixed to ISO500 !!?? (Ed - presume it's ok to link to it, pls remove if not)
 
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Regarding the update, I updated everything and it fixed everything I wanted it to EXCEPT that on the slave/gimbal remote, you still can't remove or minimize the FPV screen in the corner. They should also make C1 or C2 a function that clears the screen of all the flight information so the gimbal operator has a full view of what he or she is capturing.

Side note: My gimbal makes an INSANE sound of grinding gears and who knows what for about 5 seconds after initialization on startup. It doesn't move when it makes these sounds and it happens after it's little gimbal dance has completed. Everything seems to be working flawlessly though.
When it comes to the FPV-image, then this is most likely tackled with a DJIGo update, not so much a firmware upgrade for the drone/remote.
 
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Is ISO REALLY FIXED same as in old celluloid days!!?? For Log gamma to work correctly you have to expose correctly, even overexpose a bit - therefore an all other cameras of all manufacturers Log works from camera-native ISO up to ANY HIGHER ISO.
I am more confused when I look at DJI graphs who state that best DR and SNR are at ISO100!!

Regarding Airport zone flying - as I regularly need to fly (approved, licensed) missions near airport infrastructure - is there a way to fly ATTI in NFZ same as with older DJI pro flight controllers?

There is a feature, or so I think, within the DjiGo app that lets you apply for a temporary lift of restrictions when within the no-fly zone if you qualify as a licensed pilot. I stumbled upon it at one time when I was close to one of these zones, I briefly followed the onscreen guide, until I found out I was on the border and need not continue. There is some more info on how you can verify your account for this: DJI GEO System - Up-to-date Information On Where to Fly
 
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It's what they did with the I1, I am wary with my I2, (especially with no go-back feature).
We have all seen that video of the guy racing the I2 around on 1 pack. I don't need to race around when I shoot real estate jobs, 1 battery charged to 100% will do it. I would always prefer to have a second battery at 100% for the next house, (these are only 5-10 minute shoots) and and don't need two batteries for 1 house.
THIS firmware update prevents you from using only 1 pack. The I1 used only 1 pack for years b4 guys started adding auxiliary packs for extended flight times.
Please don't hobble my new I2.
Why don't just land when you done your 1st house, move to the next house with the same set of batteries until they are discharged? It means you redundancy on both flights!
 
Why lock it? Why 500?
NickU has an excellent, detailed and very scientific explanation of the process. For the layman, LOG setting requires that the data be constant so that grading can be done uniformly. It's also why the white balance becomes locked, and why you must use preset white balance settings. If the ISO and WB starts changing as you're grading the footage then you have to deal separately with each change, and that can be tricky and time consuming.
 
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Thanks Nick,

I sure don't like the options that leaves. I am getting best results lenses between 2.0 and 4.0 on my 3 lenses with a fast falloff above 4.0. Shutter (personal) is decided by desired look, not exposure. They are forcing an extra 2.3 EV to ISO (from 100 to 500) which means more aggressive filters in many daytime instances. I am not digging that. Why not leave the options open as they were? The strongest argument yet for DNG?
 
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Naw, you have me confused with the Daredevils out there on You Tube.
Also, it doesn't say in the manual you need to fly with 2 packs only, and they also allowed it in their original/current firmware, (so take what you wish from that).
I fly like a grandpa because I am a professional photographer, (you would laugh at me for sure).
I only bought the I2 for the X5S. I have zero need to race around and stress the components.
With the t-motor props, it's the smoothest platform I have ever filmed from and easily well worth the money. The people who complain about the price are most likely hobbyist :)

What I would be concerned with is the battery balance, your method of flying might blow back when you want to fly with 2 batteries inserted. The batteries are paired and the balance is carefully maintained between the batteries and their cells. If you loose this balance duo to the way you use them, then this might result in power failure in mid flight. If I was you I would rather spend the extra bucks needed for a second set of batteries. It does not matter how slow/fast you fly, the drone will make equal amount of damage when falling from the sky.
 
What I would be concerned with is the battery balance, your method of flying might blow back when you want to fly with 2 batteries inserted. The batteries are paired and the balance is carefully maintained between the batteries and their cells. If you loose this balance duo to the way you use them, then this might result in power failure in mid flight. If I was you I would rather spend the extra bucks needed for a second set of batteries. It does not matter how slow/fast you fly, the drone will make equal amount of damage when falling from the sky.


So true, I would never fly with one battery. It makes as much sense as this guy who discharges his phantom by taking the props off and spinning motors hinspeed till it's dead. Saw that in phantom forum lol
 
So true, I would never fly with one battery. It makes as much sense as this guy who discharges his phantom by taking the props off and spinning motors hinspeed till it's dead. Saw that in phantom forum lol
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The batteries are paired and the balance is carefully maintained between the batteries and their cells. If you loose this balance duo to the way you use them, then this might result in power failure in mid flight.


Lol, I'm not concerned at all, but appreciate your suggestion. You're giving DJI waaaay too much credit, (meaning you are not as familiar with them as you think). Thanks again though, I know you are only repeating what you have "heard" about paired sets, (and have no proof to back up what you are saying).
I am only concerned with cell voltage when I fly ANYTHING, (and leave the superstitions to the others) :)
 
Lol, I'm not concerned at all, but appreciate your suggestion. You're giving DJI waaaay too much credit, (meaning you are not as familiar with them as you think). Thanks again though, I know you are only repeating what you have "heard" about paired sets, (and have no proof to back up what you are saying).
I am only concerned with cell voltage when I fly ANYTHING, (and leave the superstitions to the others) :)
Lol.... you obviously don't know how batteries work if you're saying that.
Paired cells are a thing, Vape guys use them all the time, and you get very bad end results when you don't keep them paired. And those are "dumb" systems that don't have intelligent batteries.

Not trying to harp on you, but you really should read up on battery technology, it's not 1992 anymore and batteries aren't the same as they used to be.
 
but you really should read up on battery technology, it's not 1992 anymore and batteries aren't the same as they used to be.


LOL - you are funny and just playin with me I'm sure. If YOU actually were NOT stuck in 1992, you would understand that Cell Voltage is the ONLY thing you should monitor/care about.
Thanks again though, I'll move on, didn't come here to argue, peace friend :)
 
Yes D-Log only is fixed to ISO 500...

Updated successfully this morning, had to update all three sets of batteries as well and both controllers. Took about an hour in total but no errors.

Did my updates last night - haven't flown yet. For updating the batteries do you just put them on and turn on the i2 or is there some further procedure?
 
Did my updates last night - haven't flown yet. For updating the batteries do you just put them on and turn on the i2 or is there some further procedure?
It will show up on the home page of the Go app... just startup as usual with each set of batteries and wait for the prompt.
 
Hmm...never got a prompt. Updated i2, cam, radios, then just installed my other two battery sets and turned on the drone. Went to the menu item for the batts and everything looked normal so I'm assuming all good. But we all know about assumptions so I figured better to just run it by this group.

BTW I'm positively fascinated that so many people are experiencing different results after upgrading when we should all, in theory, have identical results.
 
Hmm...never got a prompt. Updated i2, cam, radios, then just installed my other two battery sets and turned on the drone. Went to the menu item for the batts and everything looked normal so I'm assuming all good. But we all know about assumptions so I figured better to just run it by this group.

BTW I'm positively fascinated that so many people are experiencing different results after upgrading when we should all, in theory, have identical results.
You have to wait on the home screen after initial startup, don't hit "go fly"

Restart the tablet after closing all apps, and turn everything on again as usual, except wait on the go 4 home page.
 
Why don't just land when you done your 1st house, move to the next house with the same set of batteries until they are discharged? It means you redundancy on both flights!

That makes much more sense Roland, (but DJI say don't take off with a less than 100% battery).
damned if you do, damned if you don't - lol :)
 
That makes much more sense Roland, (but DJI say don't take off with a less than 100% battery).
damned if you do, damned if you don't - lol :)
The less than 100% is just the "aim away from face" part of the instructions... you really DO want the redundancy here.
 

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