Battery Mod Info
- Thread starter damoncooper
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Exactly just like that.
HINT: I tucked a few strands of wiring tightly through the little opening between the bend of the tab and the board and added solder through it for a more secure fit. I use stranded 12awg but NOT rc noodle 12awg. Too many strands on those to solder properly in a small space.
Also you may get a minor bulge at that location when assembling back using 12awg but does not affect anything it around it and can't see it anyway. I use double sided trim adhesive tape to keep my plugs in position on the sides, very sleek and clean and all black wires (careful remember polarity!) with black shrink tubing to cover the xt60 plugs.
Good luck!
yes, that is good as you can put then put it back together without stressing any material
did i forget to mention to go through the eyisting cable holes??? bad me!!!!
of course you have to get through as otherwise you will not be able to put the board back. i as stated used 2.5mm of wire as i live in europe and AWG is of course AMERICAN standard which hard to get and do not use in our factory so much so the closest is the 2.5 which was good to soler. for the batt i used 4mm and loomed them away nicely
looks like i will have to take her apart again partially for some close ups
thank you. Damon. trying to follow up your steps
oh MASTER 
without you many things here would have been stil in the woods
of course other i do not remember how to write the handle name are in the same boat and i try to contribute back as much as i can
you guys and this community is awesome cheers
Good job you made Fhatzo, like Damon you are also a master, for all of us in this thread. For me it's to late makings this kind of mod, I already made the mods (by Magic Ralph) to all my batteries and since I'm waiting for my black bird, I can only suck my fingers with plesir and reeds in this excellent source of knowledge.thank you. Damon. trying to follow up your steps
without you many things here would have been stil in the woods
of course other i do not remember how to write the handle name are in the same boat and i try to contribute back as much as i can
cheers
Thanks all.
Phatzo, can you explain to me the main differences between the two way of mod in deteils.thank you. Damon. trying to follow up your steps
without you many things here would have been stil in the woods
of course other i do not remember how to write the handle name are in the same boat and i try to contribute back as much as i can
cheers
Thanks in advance
the mod to the battery is made to the battery and will not alter or modify the AC but still give you redundancy in case of dji battery failure.
but you have to do it on all your batteries or the ones you choose.
the AC mod is done once, warranty is void of course and when sent in they might even have a few questions
but also here you have the redundancy in case of dji horror battery and only do it once.
i am not sure i got your question. if you still have unclear things in your mind about this let us know. Damon is the first who made a mod on his bird.
also read back into this thread as conditioning your batteries is also explained. - unpluging the pcb board of the battery and getting back "lost" mAh... just to be brief.
edit: sorry, not in this thread. the name of it is "i want my mah back!" . search for it. great way to save some money.
When I speak about difference between the two way, I mean in the end , I prefer voiding the bat warranty then the AC warranty. Is there some ather reason you prefer the mod on AC then the mod on bat. I agree it's much nicer without seeing wires that comes out from the bat.the mod to the battery is made to the battery and will not alter or modify the AC but still give you redundancy in case of dji battery failure.
but you have to do it on all your batteries or the ones you choose.
the AC mod is done once, warranty is void of course and when sent in they might even have a few questions
but also here you have the redundancy in case of dji horror battery and only do it once.
i am not sure i got your question. if you still have unclear things in your mind about this let us know. Damon is the first who made a mod on his bird.
also read back into this thread as conditioning your batteries is also explained. - unpluging the pcb board of the battery and getting back "lost" mAh... just to be brief.
edit: sorry, not in this thread. the name of it is "i want my mah back!" . search for it. great way to save some money.
I follow this thread from the day one, but nobody really explain why the preference from one to the second.
Thanks
My take on it is this,
If you need to send your AC in for warranty regardless of which way you do the mod they will be able to tell from the black box recordings that you modded the battery when it shows crazy flight times.
So really it boils down to preference, do you want a streamlined look or do you want to mod all your batteries and have the wires hanging out?
If the leads are attached to the proper place on the battery the only "safer" the bird side mod would be is if for some reason your DJI battery jumped out of the bird mid flight it would still have power to the main board.
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If you need to send your AC in for warranty regardless of which way you do the mod they will be able to tell from the black box recordings that you modded the battery when it shows crazy flight times.
So really it boils down to preference, do you want a streamlined look or do you want to mod all your batteries and have the wires hanging out?
If the leads are attached to the proper place on the battery the only "safer" the bird side mod would be is if for some reason your DJI battery jumped out of the bird mid flight it would still have power to the main board.
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my bird is over a year old and has no warranty already. that is why i did it to the AC and not bother with 9 batteries...
benefit is you have the same function and only have to alter once. i only touch anything when warranty is over as i will also do my RC 5ghz antenna problem with pcb's ordered and waiting for them to arrive.
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benefit is you have the same function and only have to alter once. i only touch anything when warranty is over as i will also do my RC 5ghz antenna problem with pcb's ordered and waiting for them to arrive.
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Ok P3P, accept your analyze and agreed with all elements. So now I'm more confidence on my mod, just be careful not loosing my bat in the air.
Thanks
Hey Phatzo you mentioned about taking it apart again just to show people how to do it. Thats sounds like a great idea
Perhaps you could do a video too.
Real world battery mod test.
Flung the X5R 1.5miles out to sea. Battery mod got me 16min flight time with the GO app telling me I still had 7:30 left in the bank.
Flung the X5R 1.5miles out to sea. Battery mod got me 16min flight time with the GO app telling me I still had 7:30 left in the bank.
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The battery board may still give you grief. Better to connect straight to the AC.
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I've been farther out but this was the first time I've watched about $9K disappear into the horizon
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Hey guys I'm in Canada, It seems the prices here for lipo's and chargers are crazy high !!!
If you wouldn't mind, what are a few affordable / decent options for chargers and lipo's if you guys wouldn't mind helping me out.
I also have a tb48 with a dead control board but the cells are still good, I'm thinking about splitting it and making 2 3s batteries and running them in series connected to the inspire in parallel. Is there anyway to get my good tb48 battery board to charge them both in parallel ?? Or am I dreaming lol
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If you wouldn't mind, what are a few affordable / decent options for chargers and lipo's if you guys wouldn't mind helping me out.
I also have a tb48 with a dead control board but the cells are still good, I'm thinking about splitting it and making 2 3s batteries and running them in series connected to the inspire in parallel. Is there anyway to get my good tb48 battery board to charge them both in parallel ?? Or am I dreaming lol
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