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Filming from a boat: Radar interference?

I got permission from the owners to share a few photos, I had to erase the name of the yacht and adhere to other conditions. Please do not copy or redistribute in any shape or form.
So, here are a few samples..
 

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Even the 6-ish second thing does not work reliably if the boat is underway when you hand catch. You can test this while practicing hand catches on the ground by just walking briskly to simulate the boat and I2's motion while you try to shut down after the catch. In my experience (dozens of commercial flights from sailing vessels, including tall ships, and associated land-based practicing), you can hold the left stick straight down for a VERY long time and the motors will keep spinning if the bird thinks it is still moving forward. For safety, and to retain the confidence/respect of the people who have hired you to film their expensive yacht or tall ship, the last thing you want to do is be fighting your bird after catching it, while the boat is moving, praying for the props to stop.

The emergency kill procedure works reliably, and is the way to go (left stick in and down to 4:30 and press -hold RTH button) .

BTW, I always use an experienced assistant, with whom I've practiced, to catch the bird for me when working from moving boats at sea. While I have practiced one hand catches on my own, while standing firmly on the ground and operating the RC with the other hand, but I don't think this is a very safe or prudent way to operate, and consider it to be a last resort emergency procedure (if the landing gear fails to lower, for example)

To avoid most of the other problems mentioned in the thread above (compass errors caused by metal hulls, radar interference, etc.) we sometimes operate from a smaller non-metal boat (zodiac/dingy) shadowing the one I'm filming. On these smaller boats using an assistant for hand release and catch is still highly recommended, and someone else pilots the boat, so there are at least 3 of us on board, which can be tight.
David: With your assistant doing or prepared to do a "hand catch" of Inspire2, do you have added hand grips on the bird? thank you.
 
Yes. I got the Secraft Hand Catch grips from Florida Drone Supply. Small, light, less expensive than the ones from DJI, and adequate.
Are you able to keep the catch handles on the bird when storing/transporting. Do they fit in the travel case (not stock case) without taking them off? Trying to decide on these or the official DJI ones. Quickness from storage to getting up in air is important to me. Do almost all my flying from a boat
 
Are you able to keep the catch handles on the bird when storing/transporting. Do they fit in the travel case (not stock case) without taking them off? Trying to decide on these or the official DJI ones. Quickness from storage to getting up in air is important to me. Do almost all my flying from a boat
Each handle consists of a circular bracket that attaches to the I2 frame and has a threaded hole in the base into which you can quickly screw in the handles themselves, which have a bolt sticking up for that purpose. I keep the brackets permanently attached to the I2 frame, but only attach the handles themselves when needed. The brackets are very light and take up almost no space. I think I removed a bit of the foam to make room for the mount point on the bottom in my air-travel case, but can't recall and I'm on a car-based trip for the next few days without that case. When I work out of my car I just use the standard case that came with the I2. I had a great lightweight landing mode case for my I1 (the inspak hard shell backpack), and when I switched to an I2 I initially hated the hassle of going in and out of travel mode and mounting/unmounting my camera at every job site. But the only I2 landing mode cases I've found are bulky and heavy, and I carry my case up and down a narrow flight of stairs almost daily. I decided that the setup/teardown inconvenience was less of a problem than the strain on my aging back of lugging the heavy case up and down the stairs. ;-)

I have not used the DJI handles in person, but from online resource it looks as though they are significantly larger and more rugged than the Secraft ones. I think I read that they were designed to let you use the I2 on the ground like a Ronin. The Secraft ones are pretty light and small. They work fine for handcatch purposes , but I treat them with some care, and the way the mounting bolt attaches to the top of the handle seems like a weak point to me. So if you will be putting them to rugged use on a daily basis the DJI ones might be a better value.
 
David: With your assistant doing or prepared to do a "hand catch" of Inspire2, do you have added hand grips on the bird? thank you.
I have had long and protracted discussions with DJI's tech folks in California as well as in China. I've submitted the actual frequencies of most common radar output asking what kind of shielding may be in the RC or on board the Inspire 1 or 2....from such frequencies. The answer seems to be: No tests have been done by DJI whatsoever. Their stock answer is to not be near radar...or give it 75 feet in any event. In NYC harbor, on a clear day it is LAWFUL for a captain to turn off radar on a tugboat...larger ships? a bigger issue. A military ship has so much RF coming out of it ,fuggedabout it. But its not only radar on larger ships: its' broadband, radar, and other gear.....but DJI gives no guidance.
 
Their stock answer is to not be near radar...or give it 75 feet in any event. In NYC harbor, on a clear day it is LAWFUL for a captain to turn off radar on a tugboat...larger ships? a bigger issue. A military ship has so much RF coming out of it ,fuggedabout it. But its not only radar on larger ships: its' broadband, radar, and other gear.....but DJI gives no guidance.
Operating from a smaller, less RF-encumbered chase boat seems like the way to go in those scenarios.
 
Operating from a smaller, less RF-encumbered chase boat seems like the way to go in those scenarios.
Indeed: If I were to build an ideal drone chase boat: It would be fibeglass or aluminum hulled catamaran for stability. Outboard engines at the stern as opposed to mid hull inboard (to reduce interference from electrical or ferrous issues), a wide foredeck, and removeable bow or side rails.
 

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