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New Firmware.... V01.0.0240. who's first...?

Lol, I'm not concerned at all, but appreciate your suggestion. You're giving DJI waaaay too much credit, (meaning you are not as familiar with them as you think). Thanks again though, I know you are only repeating what you have "heard" about paired sets, (and have no proof to back up what you are saying).
I am only concerned with cell voltage when I fly ANYTHING, (and leave the superstitions to the others) :)
I think you have mistaken me for some DJI fan, believe me, i´m not, quite the opposite. What I have is the greatest respect for what I am doing when I have the bird in the air. I am not some fanatic guy that just believe everything he reads. I know that batteries can take quite the abuse, but I have also chowed my way through a bucketload of DJI batteries and one thing that characterises them all is they all fail at an instance. Im not at all impressed with their batteries to be honest. Luckily I have been able to learn most of this through my work with Ronin batteries. I´ve witnessed a colleges Inspire RAW simply drop dead from the sky due to exactly this kind of failure, no warning what so ever it simply plummeted. It was pure luck this happened over forest and not over populated area the day before.
I´m not trying to sound smart or pick a fight with you. I just apply the same respect to my drone as I do with my car.
 
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Thanks Nick,

I sure don't like the options that leaves. I am getting best results lenses between 2.0 and 4.0 on my 3 lenses with a fast falloff above 4.0. Shutter (personal) is decided by desired look, not exposure. They are forcing an extra 2.3 EV which means more aggressive filters in many daytime instances. I am not digging that. Why not leave the options open as they were? The strongest argument yet for DNG?

I'm still internalising (read: digesting and making sense of!) what he said in that post. But, I think the answers in his 4th (and 3rd) point...

4. Native ISO

Usually, when applying the analog gain 1x and LOG gamma, we say the equivlent ISO is called native ISO.

After applying the DLOG, the 18% gray is 2.3 fstops above the normal gamma. Do you remember the exposure is mostly responsible for the 18% gray? Therefore, the exposure should be reduced 2.3ev in order to match the aperture/shutter of other cameras. In our case,

native ISO = Baseline ISO + 2.3ev = ISO500.

That means use the same aperture/shutter/iso, we will make the brightness of 18% gray be aligned with any cameras, no matter for photo or for cinema.

I think you need to forget that the ISO is set at 500 and just set your exposure via the metering and film as you would anyway - so if that means adding ND's, then that's what you need to do.

In setting things up the way they have, they're trying to protect the recorded scene so it's actually got maximum extractable information in it - you've stuff in the highlights without risking blowing them unduly, and are also able to pull up the shadow detail if you need to. If the highlights are blown, it's gone for good, if the blacks are squeezed a bit, then it's not as big a deal.
 
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Regarding the update, I updated everything and it fixed everything I wanted it to EXCEPT that on the slave/gimbal remote, you still can't remove or minimize the FPV screen in the corner. They should also make C1 or C2 a function that clears the screen of all the flight information so the gimbal operator has a full view of what he or she is capturing.

Side note: My gimbal makes an INSANE sound of grinding gears and who knows what for about 5 seconds after initialization on startup. It doesn't move when it makes these sounds and it happens after it's little gimbal dance has completed. Everything seems to be working flawlessly though.

Try switching to full screen. All the rubbish goes away only the camera view is shown
 
I know. I just think it should be possible to click C1 or C2 to make it go in and out of full screen so you don't need to touch the screen each time.

Then set it as a custom for one of them in the start up screen
 
You have to wait on the home screen after initial startup, don't hit "go fly"

Restart the tablet after closing all apps, and turn everything on again as usual, except wait on the go 4 home page.

Glad I asked. Went back and followed your suggestions. When I first fired everything up the app just went right past the startup screen into the active screen and everything appeared totally normal. It's only after I backed out into the startup screen and waited that the update notice popped up. Really wish there was somewhere within the battery menu item actually confirming the batts up to date.

By the way, what are those self adhesive pads (if that's what they are) that came with the lettered battery labels?

Chiming in to previous discussion, my camera is pointing forward and also makes that grinding noise initially but then quiets down after presumably calibrating itself so all seems ok. I'm not at all worried about the noise. I've owned a Ronin for years and it can make some horrible noises during calibration but so far, so good.
 
I feel really dumb asking this question but does anyone know how to switch the gimbal from tilting to panning in single pilot/operator mode? On the i1 (if memory serves), I set it as a toggle function for one of the C buttons on the back but that option doesn't appear for the i2.
 
Glad I asked. Went back and followed your suggestions. When I first fired everything up the app just went right past the startup screen into the active screen and everything appeared totally normal. It's only after I backed out into the startup screen and waited that the update notice popped up. Really wish there was somewhere within the battery menu item actually confirming the batts up to date.

By the way, what are those self adhesive pads (if that's what they are) that came with the lettered battery labels?

Chiming in to previous discussion, my camera is pointing forward and also makes that grinding noise initially but then quiets down after presumably calibrating itself so all seems ok. I'm not at all worried about the noise. I've owned a Ronin for years and it can make some horrible noises during calibration but so far, so good.

Pads are used for cold weather when not in use you can re-stick back on the white plastic they came on
 
Glad I asked. Went back and followed your suggestions. When I first fired everything up the app just went right past the startup screen into the active screen and everything appeared totally normal. It's only after I backed out into the startup screen and waited that the update notice popped up. Really wish there was somewhere within the battery menu item actually confirming the batts up to date.

By the way, what are those self adhesive pads (if that's what they are) that came with the lettered battery labels?

Chiming in to previous discussion, my camera is pointing forward and also makes that grinding noise initially but then quiets down after presumably calibrating itself so all seems ok. I'm not at all worried about the noise. I've owned a Ronin for years and it can make some horrible noises during calibration but so far, so good.

The grinding noise is the PID for the gimbal recalibrating as long as it don't make the noise after its finished its dance when you pan then its OKAY
 
Following update I got an "air encoder error" now DJI support has me sending in for repair......

That usually happens when you don't have a camera attached...

If you did have the camera attached I'd remove it and make sure there is nothing obstructing the connection and then reattach.
 
I feel really dumb asking this question but does anyone know how to switch the gimbal from tilting to panning in single pilot/operator mode? On the i1 (if memory serves), I set it as a toggle function for one of the C buttons on the back but that option doesn't appear for the i2.

Correct, that has never been possible on the I2 while the gimbal is in 'follow' mode, you need to switch to 'free' mode then you can select pan by holding down C1.
 
I'm still internalising (read: digesting and making sense of!) what he said in that post. But, I think the answers in his 4th (and 3rd) point...

4. Native ISO

Usually, when applying the analog gain 1x and LOG gamma, we say the equivlent ISO is called native ISO.

After applying the DLOG, the 18% gray is 2.3 fstops above the normal gamma. Do you remember the exposure is mostly responsible for the 18% gray? Therefore, the exposure should be reduced 2.3ev in order to match the aperture/shutter of other cameras. In our case,

native ISO = Baseline ISO + 2.3ev = ISO500.

That means use the same aperture/shutter/iso, we will make the brightness of 18% gray be aligned with any cameras, no matter for photo or for cinema.

I think you need to forget that the ISO is set at 500 and just set your exposure via the metering and film as you would anyway - so if that means adding ND's, then that's what you need to do.

In setting things up the way they have, they're trying to protect the recorded scene so it's actually got maximum extractable information in it - you've stuff in the highlights without risking blowing them unduly, and are also able to pull up the shadow detail if you need to. If the highlights are blown, it's gone for good, if the blacks are squeezed a bit, then it's not as big a deal.

Hi Nick,

Yes, they have established a native ISO (500) for D-Log which is a 2.3 EV increase from ISO 100 for "Standard". The byproduct of this is noise in the darks. He is saying that the adjustment we make in post to correct and pull the blacks back down (and some magic :)) will correct/mask that noise. That is where the rumbling comes from. :) Their concern is maximizing DR with D-Log which is great, but what about when we would prefer less than maximized DR without sacrificing clean darks. That should be a user choice (as it was yesterday with our camera and is today with many other cameras in their LOGish Gammas). In any event he mentioned that DJI is working with other ISO's for D-Log, so it sounds like this is a work in progress with more options will be coming.

On the upside, the the DNG files are fantastic and we have a Waveform now with Parade. I shot using that today and it is wonderful. I do wish that it remained independent of FPV, though.
 
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... I would prefer a less than maximized DR without sacrificing clean darks. That should be a user choice (as it was yesterday with our camera and is today with many other cameras).

I agree, being able to decide which to sacrifice should be down to the user. But I can also see their point of view as they're trying to ensure everything is squeezed in to give the maximum recording info and best compromise to everyone. If they didn't someone different would squeel that they'd broken it in a different way o_O:p:D

Thing is, life doesn't always work like that - Somedays are highlights, somedays are lowlights :D
 
Hi,

Just a question for this update issue. Since I also have the calibration noise and shaky cam when finishing the calibration, I am wondering if it's a good idea to fly it? I heard some people experienced some vibration when flying after the update has been made. I also have some motor noise when panning the cam horizontally at 360°. Anybody has the same effects?

Thanks for your inspired answers :)

Max
 
Hi,

Just a question for this update issue. Since I also have the calibration noise and shaky cam when finishing the calibration, I am wondering if it's a good idea to fly it? I heard some people experienced some vibration when flying after the update has been made. I also have some motor noise when panning the cam horizontally at 360°. Anybody has the same effects?

Thanks for your inspired answers :)

Max
Same issues here, I'm not flying until they fix it... noise was NOT present prior to the update.

And during the calibration it's quiet as a lamb.
 
I feel really dumb asking this question but does anyone know how to switch the gimbal from tilting to panning in single pilot/operator mode? On the i1 (if memory serves), I set it as a toggle function for one of the C buttons on the back but that option doesn't appear for the i2.

Press and HOLD the C1 button then rotate the left dial.
 
Same issues here, I'm not flying until they fix it... noise was NOT present prior to the update.

And during the calibration it's quiet as a lamb.
Yep, Same here, no noise during calibration, but when moving it afterward, there is this "old Hard-Drive" noise which I don't like at all.. And I also never noticed that noise before when trying it... I shift to my I1 pro until they fix this. How long you think it takes before a new release? (I ask this because I just bought the I2 and this was my first update :cool:
 
Yep, Same here, no noise during calibration, but when moving it afterward, there is this "old Hard-Drive" noise which I don't like at all.. And I also never noticed that noise before when trying it... I shift to my I1 pro until they fix this. How long you think it takes before a new release? (I ask this because I just bought the I2 and this was my first update :cool:
I actually have hope for a quick fix, as the beta testers have said this wasn't present in the beta versions, but that they now have these issues with the release firmware. So it doesn't seem like too bad of a fix.

Some other users have suggested (most likely correct) that the PID tuning is too agressive... also an easy fix.

As much as this company sucks, I don't think we'll be stuck waiting for months like last time.
 
I actually have hope for a quick fix, as the beta testers have said this wasn't present in the beta versions, but that they now have these issues with the release firmware. So it doesn't seem like too bad of a fix.

Also add in that not everyone has problems either, not during beta and not now it is live.

As ever there are manufacturing tolerances as the retuning may have been a little too tight for those at one end or the other of the tolerance range...
 

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