I think you have mistaken me for some DJI fan, believe me, i´m not, quite the opposite. What I have is the greatest respect for what I am doing when I have the bird in the air. I am not some fanatic guy that just believe everything he reads. I know that batteries can take quite the abuse, but I have also chowed my way through a bucketload of DJI batteries and one thing that characterises them all is they all fail at an instance. Im not at all impressed with their batteries to be honest. Luckily I have been able to learn most of this through my work with Ronin batteries. I´ve witnessed a colleges Inspire RAW simply drop dead from the sky due to exactly this kind of failure, no warning what so ever it simply plummeted. It was pure luck this happened over forest and not over populated area the day before.Lol, I'm not concerned at all, but appreciate your suggestion. You're giving DJI waaaay too much credit, (meaning you are not as familiar with them as you think). Thanks again though, I know you are only repeating what you have "heard" about paired sets, (and have no proof to back up what you are saying).
I am only concerned with cell voltage when I fly ANYTHING, (and leave the superstitions to the others)![]()
Thanks Nick,
I sure don't like the options that leaves. I am getting best results lenses between 2.0 and 4.0 on my 3 lenses with a fast falloff above 4.0. Shutter (personal) is decided by desired look, not exposure. They are forcing an extra 2.3 EV which means more aggressive filters in many daytime instances. I am not digging that. Why not leave the options open as they were? The strongest argument yet for DNG?
Regarding the update, I updated everything and it fixed everything I wanted it to EXCEPT that on the slave/gimbal remote, you still can't remove or minimize the FPV screen in the corner. They should also make C1 or C2 a function that clears the screen of all the flight information so the gimbal operator has a full view of what he or she is capturing.
Side note: My gimbal makes an INSANE sound of grinding gears and who knows what for about 5 seconds after initialization on startup. It doesn't move when it makes these sounds and it happens after it's little gimbal dance has completed. Everything seems to be working flawlessly though.
I know. I just think it should be possible to click C1 or C2 to make it go in and out of full screen so you don't need to touch the screen each time.Try switching to full screen. All the rubbish goes away only the camera view is shown
I know. I just think it should be possible to click C1 or C2 to make it go in and out of full screen so you don't need to touch the screen each time.
You have to wait on the home screen after initial startup, don't hit "go fly"
Restart the tablet after closing all apps, and turn everything on again as usual, except wait on the go 4 home page.
Glad I asked. Went back and followed your suggestions. When I first fired everything up the app just went right past the startup screen into the active screen and everything appeared totally normal. It's only after I backed out into the startup screen and waited that the update notice popped up. Really wish there was somewhere within the battery menu item actually confirming the batts up to date.
By the way, what are those self adhesive pads (if that's what they are) that came with the lettered battery labels?
Chiming in to previous discussion, my camera is pointing forward and also makes that grinding noise initially but then quiets down after presumably calibrating itself so all seems ok. I'm not at all worried about the noise. I've owned a Ronin for years and it can make some horrible noises during calibration but so far, so good.
Glad I asked. Went back and followed your suggestions. When I first fired everything up the app just went right past the startup screen into the active screen and everything appeared totally normal. It's only after I backed out into the startup screen and waited that the update notice popped up. Really wish there was somewhere within the battery menu item actually confirming the batts up to date.
By the way, what are those self adhesive pads (if that's what they are) that came with the lettered battery labels?
Chiming in to previous discussion, my camera is pointing forward and also makes that grinding noise initially but then quiets down after presumably calibrating itself so all seems ok. I'm not at all worried about the noise. I've owned a Ronin for years and it can make some horrible noises during calibration but so far, so good.
Following update I got an "air encoder error" now DJI support has me sending in for repair......
I feel really dumb asking this question but does anyone know how to switch the gimbal from tilting to panning in single pilot/operator mode? On the i1 (if memory serves), I set it as a toggle function for one of the C buttons on the back but that option doesn't appear for the i2.
I'm still internalising (read: digesting and making sense of!) what he said in that post. But, I think the answers in his 4th (and 3rd) point...
4. Native ISO
Usually, when applying the analog gain 1x and LOG gamma, we say the equivlent ISO is called native ISO.
After applying the DLOG, the 18% gray is 2.3 fstops above the normal gamma. Do you remember the exposure is mostly responsible for the 18% gray? Therefore, the exposure should be reduced 2.3ev in order to match the aperture/shutter of other cameras. In our case,
native ISO = Baseline ISO + 2.3ev = ISO500.
That means use the same aperture/shutter/iso, we will make the brightness of 18% gray be aligned with any cameras, no matter for photo or for cinema.
I think you need to forget that the ISO is set at 500 and just set your exposure via the metering and film as you would anyway - so if that means adding ND's, then that's what you need to do.
In setting things up the way they have, they're trying to protect the recorded scene so it's actually got maximum extractable information in it - you've stuff in the highlights without risking blowing them unduly, and are also able to pull up the shadow detail if you need to. If the highlights are blown, it's gone for good, if the blacks are squeezed a bit, then it's not as big a deal.
... I would prefer a less than maximized DR without sacrificing clean darks. That should be a user choice (as it was yesterday with our camera and is today with many other cameras).
Same issues here, I'm not flying until they fix it... noise was NOT present prior to the update.Hi,
Just a question for this update issue. Since I also have the calibration noise and shaky cam when finishing the calibration, I am wondering if it's a good idea to fly it? I heard some people experienced some vibration when flying after the update has been made. I also have some motor noise when panning the cam horizontally at 360°. Anybody has the same effects?
Thanks for your inspired answers
Max
I feel really dumb asking this question but does anyone know how to switch the gimbal from tilting to panning in single pilot/operator mode? On the i1 (if memory serves), I set it as a toggle function for one of the C buttons on the back but that option doesn't appear for the i2.
Yep, Same here, no noise during calibration, but when moving it afterward, there is this "old Hard-Drive" noise which I don't like at all.. And I also never noticed that noise before when trying it... I shift to my I1 pro until they fix this. How long you think it takes before a new release? (I ask this because I just bought the I2 and this was my first updateSame issues here, I'm not flying until they fix it... noise was NOT present prior to the update.
And during the calibration it's quiet as a lamb.
I actually have hope for a quick fix, as the beta testers have said this wasn't present in the beta versions, but that they now have these issues with the release firmware. So it doesn't seem like too bad of a fix.Yep, Same here, no noise during calibration, but when moving it afterward, there is this "old Hard-Drive" noise which I don't like at all.. And I also never noticed that noise before when trying it... I shift to my I1 pro until they fix this. How long you think it takes before a new release? (I ask this because I just bought the I2 and this was my first update![]()
I actually have hope for a quick fix, as the beta testers have said this wasn't present in the beta versions, but that they now have these issues with the release firmware. So it doesn't seem like too bad of a fix.
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