Controlling exposure settings in DJI Pano mode

[licensed pilot]

Can I control the exposure in DJI Pano Mode. Am getting a lot of over exposed images.

 

[Steve@AerialImagesPro]

I manually snap each picture adjusting exposure as I go, the use Microsoft’s Image Composition Editor to stitch them together. It’s free and does a really good job. But, you have to be careful not to make big exposure changes in adjacent frames or you‘ll see a distinct exposure line after stitching.

 

[licensed pilot]

I manually snap each picture adjusting exposure as I go, the use Microsoft’s Image Composition Editor to stitch them together. It’s free and does a really good job. But, you have to be careful not to make big exposure changes in adjacent frames or you‘ll see a distinct exposure line after stitching.

That's what I normally do. Just trying to learn how to use the auto pano mode on the P4.

 

[SanCap]

Can I control the exposure in DJI Pano Mode. Am getting a lot of over exposed images.

When I do panos, I rotate the copter 360° before I start the pano and expose for the brightest part of the sky in manual mode. After the image is stitched I brighten up the shadows for a balanced exposure.

 

[Donnie Frank]

When I do panos, I rotate the copter 360° before I start the pano and expose for the brightest part of the sky in manual mode. After the image is stitched I brighten up the shadows for a balanced exposure.

You took the words right out of my mouth. I will add that the histogram is your best friend. While the EV indicator gives one a general sense of exposure, the histogram will allow you to make intelligent decisions when faced with a choice of either blowing out a sky or crushing the shadows. I always shoot in Log mode for 1 or 2 extra stops of dynamic range. Do these things and you should be able to even out exposure in post.

In a related story, I do construction progress videos, which are essentially a 360° POI (albeit, a bit more sophisticated). I have always struggled with exposure but I have learned that it's best to set the exposure at the high end of safe. Why? Because the client probably cares a lot more about what lurks in the shadows than blowing out the sky. These are not beauty videos. They are forensic videos. That said, even with my "high end" exposure, I find the EV values on the Inspire 1 X3 camera tend to be "hotter" than actual EV. So I generally shoot -1.7 to 0.0. If any part of the shot gets into positive EV numbers, that's pretty much a guarantee that I've blown something out.

Here's a screen capture from yesterday's shoot. The is the "darker" side of the shoot because the sun is in front of me.


As you can see, there's plenty of exposure in the shadows with some parts of the photo blown out. In reality, there IS some data in the "blown out" sections, but I have exposed the video in post to favor the shadows.

And here's with the Sun behind me:



This side of the site is padded roughly 2 stops in post, compared to the other side, which is actually boosted 1 or 2 stops.

Anyway, I think you get the point. Exposure decisions can be tough.

D

 

[huppe]

Have you tried in RAW?

 

[licensed pilot]

Have you tried in RAW?

Not sure what you mean. Calibrating images in post?

 

[RBP]

Not sure what you mean. Calibrating images in post?

I do all my panos manually, it's faster. I shoot 32 pictures per pano. Before stitching I edit each photo and that only takes a few seconds on each photo, that way any over or under exposure is corrected and I don't need to depend on what I'm seeing on the tablet to make adjustments. I'm not saying the way I'm doing it is most efficient, it just works for me.

I also use Microsoft Image editor to stitch my panos. Multivista does all the editing and stitching for theirs.

 

[licensed pilot]

I do all my panos manually, it's faster. I shoot 32 pictures per pano. Before stitching I edit each photo and that only takes a few seconds on each photo, that way any over or under exposure is corrected and I don't need to depend on what I'm seeing on the tablet to make adjustments. I'm not saying the way I'm doing it is most efficient, it just works for me.

I also use Microsoft Image editor to stitch my panos. Multivista does all the editing and stitching for theirs.

Yeah, I can do that, hoping to find a better approach than adjusting each image.

 

[huppe]

Not sure what you mean. Calibrating images in post?

NO shooting your pictures in RAW mode,so you have 100% control afterwards on your pc.

 

[RBP]

NO shooting your pictures in RAW mode,so you have 100% control afterwards on your pc.

If I'm looking for a beauty photo, I always shoot in raw. However if shooting for construction documentation where the client just wants to see a clean picture the I use JPEG. I'm no professional, so maybe some of the pros here have better advice.

 

[Suncoastaerials]

Shoot in manual mode and underexpose