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Film Making and 30fps and 60fps? Yikes!

rmb

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Website
overexposures.net
I love my Inspire 1 and have made great money with it. I also love my phantom 4. And, like many of you out there I have a Mavic on order as I travel a great deal. Now back to my concern. The I2 and P4 Pro look amazing. They boast 5k at 30 and 4k at 60. I have some concerns that perhaps someone can shed light on. As a videographer I work with small and large production companies. Every one of them request a 24p (or 23.98) frame rate (usually with a 180 degree shutter) On 2 occasions in the distant past I mistakenly shot at 29.98 and had to do a complete re-shoot as there is no way that I am aware of in post to consistently convert 29.97 to 23.98 with out either slowing the footage down slightly or if you want to keep frame accurate syncing noticeably seeing that every 5th frame is being dropped. With busy scenes you can get away with it, but NOT with smooth dolly shots and slow smooth drone moves. Also the touch focus is nice, but does anyone know if that can be over ridden to be a fixed focal length with a larger fixed aperture when you want everything to be crisp? I just shot a wonderful scene using my P4 doing a slow lift to emulate a typical crane shot to reveal 2 people standing on an old stone bridge. I fear that with either auto focus or touch-to-focus this shot would have been very challenging as a single operator if not impossible.
Here is a vimeo link of that small clip if my description was not clear.

Thanks in advance for input.
Fly Safe!!!

Robert

Bridge Vimeo Link
 
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I love my Inspire 1 and have made great money with it. I also love my phantom 4. And, like many of you out there I have a Mavic on order as I travel a great deal. Now back to my concern. The I2 and P4 Pro look amazing. They boast 5k at 30 and 4k at 60. I have some concerns that perhaps someone can shed light on. As a videographer I work with small and large production companies. Every one of them request a 24p (or 23.98) frame rate (usually with a 180 degree shutter) On 2 occasions in the distant past I mistakenly shot at 29.98 and had to do a complete re-shoot as there is no way that I am aware of in post to consistently convert 29.97 to 23.98 with out either slowing the footage down slightly or if you want to keep frame accurate syncing noticeably seeing that every 5th frame is being dropped. With busy scenes you can get away with it, but NOT with smooth dolly shots and slow smooth drone moves. Also the touch focus is nice, but does anyone know if that can be over ridden to be a fixed focal length with a larger fixed aperture when you want everything to be crisp? I just shot a wonderful scene using my P4 doing a slow lift to emulate a typical crane shot to reveal 2 people standing on an old stone bridge. I fear that with either auto focus or touch-to-focus this shot would have been very challenging as a single operator if not impossible.
Here is a vimeo link of that small clip if my description was not clear.

Thanks in advance for input.
Fly Safe!!!

Robert

Bridge Vimeo Link


i had a shoot in august this for a feature produced in Hungary from a hungarian prod comapny.
lucky enough i was able to use the 4K setting and the company was able to blend in my shots into the film recording shot on film.

the inspire is not able to make the 23. something frames and they had to recalculate it (not sure of the term) but they had a program where they were able to put into the right frame rate.


i'd have a question to you while i am at it :)

do you think the I 2 would stand its place amongst arri mini and red specs wise?
i learned that not knowing or having a good connection to producers or DOP's it will be hard to get me in with the gear as it is not the same lens as used in a shot which is used throughout the whole ahoot... can you give me some insight on what's going on and how this works?
really curious.
if you do not like to answer here, you can pm me or hit with a mail: [email protected]

cheers
Martin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
as to the focus part i am still on an older version on my i phone but i would imagine that if you do not touch the screen it will not focus or zoom in... probably i am not really knowing what i am talking about (need to update ) but hesitating on newest app version... as well as FW...
The Editor might know what to do :) so many good guys up here :D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I don't understand your questions. There are more frame rates. Check the FAQ page on dji.com

For fixed focus, shut off auto focus and tap 30 meters away.

There you go.
 
I love my Inspire 1 and have made great money with it. I also love my phantom 4. And, like many of you out there I have a Mavic on order as I travel a great deal. Now back to my concern. The I2 and P4 Pro look amazing. They boast 5k at 30 and 4k at 60. I have some concerns that perhaps someone can shed light on. As a videographer I work with small and large production companies. Every one of them request a 24p (or 23.98) frame rate (usually with a 180 degree shutter) On 2 occasions in the distant past I mistakenly shot at 29.98 and had to do a complete re-shoot as there is no way that I am aware of in post to consistently convert 29.97 to 23.98 with out either slowing the footage down slightly or if you want to keep frame accurate syncing noticeably seeing that every 5th frame is being dropped. With busy scenes you can get away with it, but NOT with smooth dolly shots and slow smooth drone moves. Also the touch focus is nice, but does anyone know if that can be over ridden to be a fixed focal length with a larger fixed aperture when you want everything to be crisp? I just shot a wonderful scene using my P4 doing a slow lift to emulate a typical crane shot to reveal 2 people standing on an old stone bridge. I fear that with either auto focus or touch-to-focus this shot would have been very challenging as a single operator if not impossible.
Here is a vimeo link of that small clip if my description was not clear.

Thanks in advance for input.
Fly Safe!!!

Robert

Bridge Vimeo Link
Should have told them to just push it through a Teranex!
Software/NLE's can't really do a decent t job - you need hardware based cross conversion
Blackmagic Design: Teranex Standards Converters
 
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i had a shoot in august this for a feature produced in Hungary from a hungarian prod comapny.
lucky enough i was able to use the 4K setting and the company was able to blend in my shots into the film recording shot on film.

the inspire is not able to make the 23. something frames and they had to recalculate it (not sure of the term) but they had a program where they were able to put into the right frame rate.


i'd have a question to you while i am at it :)

do you think the I 2 would stand its place amongst arri mini and red specs wise?
i learned that not knowing or having a good connection to producers or DOP's it will be hard to get me in with the gear as it is not the same lens as used in a shot which is used throughout the whole ahoot... can you give me some insight on what's going on and how this works?
really curious.
if you do not like to answer here, you can pm me or hit with a mail: [email protected]

cheers
Martin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
very hard question to answer as many DPs are a pain in the butt if if it's anything but RED or Arri with a $10,000 dollar lens. That said I just finished some Drone work for a major movie company that liked the images just fine. Maybe because they were good enough or maybe because they couldn't afford to put $30,000 in the air hanging from a $10,000 rig. And as far as the I2 is concerned, that is a very capable aerial platform and the RAW video can easily fit into virtually any production. I did a piece for Dolby that opened every movie in the world for a year and we had 2 drone shots that looked beautiful!. The key is ND, maintaining a 180 degree shutter and someone on post that understands color grading. Remember that virtually all hollywood release are delivery and shown in 2k so if you are shooting 4k RAW you image is going to get even tighter when scaled down by 50%
 
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Have you considered the DJI Focus unit? I am using it now and although I need to take my hand off to rotate the focus ring for changing the view, I love it. Once I program flights it will be even less of an issue until I can get a wingman to control the camera.
 
You clearly know what you are doing but focus and focal length are two different things - lens dependant? As I understand it the focus can be entirely manual or operated remotely with DJI Focus
 
Not sure if this helps.
1. Frame rate: You can convert it. Not always the best results but you can do it with a frame rate converter program. We often have to use these programs for our documentaries that use old archive footage. Here's more on that. http://www.digitalcinemasociety.org/downloads/FrameRateConversionSimplified-N.pdf
Basically you have to convert 29.98 to 23.98. This will mean you will drop some frames so it's important to work with a program. Editing software typically just compresses it and it doesn't work out so well.

2. Focus: I think everyone addressed it here. Two choices. Pull focus with a focus wheel or shoot with a higher F stop. The app is essentially just pulling focus for you with the little round circle. Not always the most gratifying. Great question!

Hope this helps! T.
tcjohnstone.com
 

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