Battery Mod Info

Adelberg aerial imaging · Aug 12, 2017

The aux prevent total shut down and crash. Two thunderpower to2800 work the best from all my tests. Your question about cells....?Naturally 6s are needed as that's the voltage of main in the tb47. The tb 48 is slightly higher at 22.6.
You should always turn on your main before connecting the aux and disconnect aux before shutting down the main.. read the pages... not that long as responses are mostly short

jlrsn · Aug 13, 2017

What has been found to work at the lower altitudes has been semi-matching the TB47 main Battery using 2 Thunder Power 2800 mAh, 6S , 22.2V, 25C, Lipo Batteries weighing 351 grams each wired in Parallel with the main Battery. If you use UAV Mods Battery Clip and Parallel Harness add 50 grams. If you use UAV Mods rear battery mounts add another 50 grams. This brings you up to the 3,926 grams I1V2 actual total takeoff weight using the 3X Camera which is 376 grams over the DJI published max T.O. weight. If you use a TB48 Main Battery add another 100 grams which will bring you up to 476 grams over. The consensus is that you can go up to 900 grams over and still have full control. Some people use the 1360T High Altitude Blades at Low Altitude for better control. I only use the 1360T High Altitude Blades as I'm up at 8,000' at my Rocky Mountain house with many take offs at and above 9,000'. I've found I have plenty of power and control at High Altitude but I don't trust my Blades. I have all the specs using other Batteries. I've used the Pulse Lipos along with the TB48 Main Battery which are the heaviest at 370 grams each. I've also used the Hyperion G7 2400 Batteries mounted on the cross arms using Tarot Battery Mounts with a T.O. weight of 494 grams over max published weight. I'm now experimenting with the Lion 6S 1300 mAh, 22.2V 30-45C Batteries weighing 174 grams each Batteries for redundancy only at High Altitude. When I return to my other house at Sea Level next month I'll again try all my heavier Batteries.

jlrsn · Aug 14, 2017

emtea said:
Something sounds really wrong about this. I have an I1v2 with T-motor carbon fiber 1448 propellers, carrying an X3 camera and a Multistar LiHV 6S 6600mAH battery (~900grams) and had no issues up to 3000m ASL (~9800ft). It did have to work a little harder, I did get shorter flight times, but overall if I didn't know I was up in the mountains, I honestly would have just through it was a bit windier than usual from how the Inspire responded to my inputs, it was not very noticeable for me.

I've read your experience using T-motor 1448 CF Props at altitude and my experience using the Xoar CF Props at 8,000' is completely different. Take a look at my props. Others report that it's caused by my Smartphones Rolling Shutter but I still don't trust not getting a blade strike.

Mr Phantom · Aug 14, 2017

Yes of course its good if the aux batteries has the same voltage as the main battery, didn't thought of that.
Anyway, i guess the brand of the batteries is not critical as long as the voltage and maybe the mAh and rating is the correct one?

What about my other earlier question, will the aux batteries mess up or confuse the mAh readings in the GO app, or will it disregard the added mAh from the aux batteries or even count in the mAh and show the total mAh on all batteries in total?

Also, could i use 1 aux battery with lets say 5000 mAh, instead of 2 with 2500 mAh?

And the Maxx UAV battery clip, is it sold a similar battery clip some where else or can it be done easily myself, i feel 50 USD is a bit much for that little clip, also it is sold out.

emtea · Aug 16, 2017

jlrsn said:
I've read your experience using T-motor 1448 CF Props at altitude and my experience using the Xoar CF Props at 8,000' is completely different. Take a look at my props. Others report that it's caused by my Smartphones Rolling Shutter but I still don't trust not getting a blade strike.

If you're referring to the blades seemingly being bent, that's definitely rolling shutter. Your blades are not actually warping like that at all.

Adelberg aerial imaging · Aug 16, 2017

Several people have attempted to explain this to him. He refuses to accept explanation. It's his bird so he's not comfortable flying it under these circumstances . We can't help him further. The drone has not crashed during any of his test flights so perhaps that's the demonstrated proof.

KURGANSKIY · Sep 3, 2017

tcchow said:
I personally think those 3D printing are so easy to change the shape when its get hot (I have P3 lenses cover left behine in my car, after an hour, it became very soft.) So I decided to use alloy to cut in that shape.
I do have it in Auto CAD format, leave me your email and I will sent it to you tomorrow when I get back to my office.

Hello! Can I have a 3D model of this part on the mail? [email protected]

KURGANSKIY · Sep 3, 2017

[QUOTE = "damoncooper, сообщение: 73810, член: 7563"] Гоча. Благодарю. Проверьте PM на этом сайте. [/ QUOTE]

Здравствуйте! Могу ли я иметь 3D модель этой части по почте? [email protected]

Mr Phantom · Sep 13, 2017

The company that sells the i1 battery mod clip writes on their website that one can either use two 6S batteries or two 3S batteries.
So does anybody know if there is any difference between using the 3S setup versus the 6S setup?
If yes....Whats the differences?

jlrsn · Sep 13, 2017

If using 2 3S Batteries they should be wired together in Series and then in Parallel with the Main Aircraft Battery. Bear in mind that when you wire 2 3S Batteries in Series you are doubling the Cells to 6S (6 Cells total) and doubling the Voltage. Try to keep the total combined voltage as close to 22 Volts as possible to closely match the Main Aircraft Battery that you'll be using. A TB47 Battery is a 6S 22.2V 4500 mAh Battery and a TB48 Battery is a 6S 22.8V 5700 mAh Battery. Remember to always connect your Aux Batteries "after", not before your Main Battery is turned on, and disconnect your Aux Batteries first. Ask if you have any more questions.

Scoobywrx05 · Sep 17, 2017

Had a couple tb47s with bad boards in them. Cells where good, switch boards where junk. Took them apart and soldered some leads on them with an xt 60 plug. Already did the mod to the bird side a long time ago. Took the Vps off and ran them length wise so basically the front of the battery starts right behind the rear gimbal plate bracket and the end of the battery is flush with the back of the drone and isn't any wider than what the airframe is. 19 minutes flying around with 25 percent left at landing ( never got below 3.6 volts) . Took a few pictures along the way but other than that never stopped moving. Balance is perfect with the z3 mounted and this was with using the 47 underneath and the 47 for the main battery. Both batteries depleted equally.

Strat · Oct 2, 2017

has anyone got a stl file for the battery mount for this battery mount for the inspire1 v2 with X3/Z3?

finally looking at getting around at modding the my inspire.

Mr Phantom · Oct 5, 2017

Do one need to use 2 6S batteries? Can´t one use 1 6S battery, or does that mess with the crafts balancing if its mounted on the side and not directly under the craft?

jlrsn · Oct 5, 2017

Mr Phantom said:
Do one need to use 2 6S batteries? Can´t one use 1 6S battery, or does that mess with the crafts balancing if its mounted on the side and not directly under the craft?

You can use only one 6S Battery but configure the mounting to center the weight so that one motor is not carrying more weight than the other motors.

Mr Phantom · Oct 6, 2017

Okay so if only 1 AUX battery is used it needs to be placed under the craft? Doesnt the VPS sensor get blocked?

Maybe its better to use 2 6S batteries?

I need to buy the battery mod clip so i dont need to do modifikations to the TB47/TB48 batteries.

Scoobywrx05 · Oct 6, 2017

Mr Phantom said:
Okay so if only 1 AUX battery is used it needs to be placed under the craft? Doesnt the VPS sensor get blocked?

Maybe its better to use 2 6S batteries?

I need to buy the battery mod clip so i dont need to do modifikations to the TB47/TB48 batteries.

I took my vps off. I had a few tb 47 s with bad boards in them and took them out of the case and soldered some leads to the board and used them and run them right under the stock battery with some Velcro and one strap. Is balanced extremely well . I soldered leads right to the power board so no modding batteries for me. Trip with it yesterday was with 2 47s with 21 minutes of flying and 30,339 feet of ground coverage.

Ruckusman · Oct 7, 2017

Question for anyone who has flown with the battery mod with a re-packed set of main cells.

I was doing that some 12 months ago - using a TB48 battery board and 4000mAh of Turnigy Multistars LiHV inside the battery housing and 5200mAh outside.

I did gain flight time, however monitoring the percentage remaining it would hover at ~87% for most of the flight because of the added capacity, then plummet to ~7% in one step and go into an autolanding.

This seemed to be based on time and not cell voltage

I tried this on all available firmware from about 1.2 onwards for both craft and battery - I don't recall the Android App version.

Obviously the battery couldn't turn itself off, however the sudden autolanding if the craft was anywhere over water or somewhere else unrecoverable would have ended in a total loss if not caught in time.

Has anyone else experienced the same phenomena? I suspect it may have been due to different discharge curves for the Multistar LiHV, but would like to be certain.

Scoobywrx05 · Oct 7, 2017

Ruckusman said:
Question for anyone who has flown with the battery mod with a re-packed set of main cells.

I was doing that some 12 months ago - using a TB48 battery board and 4000mAh of Turnigy Multistars LiHV inside the battery housing and 5200mAh outside.

I did gain flight time, however monitoring the percentage remaining it would hover at ~87% for most of the flight because of the added capacity, then plummet to ~7% in one step and go into an autolanding.

This seemed to be based on time and not cell voltage

I tried this on all available firmware from about 1.2 onwards for both craft and battery - I don't recall the Android App version.

Obviously the battery couldn't turn itself off, however the sudden autolanding if the craft was anywhere over water or somewhere else unrecoverable would have ended in a total loss if not caught in time.

Has anyone else experienced the same phenomena? I suspect it may have been due to different discharge curves for the Multistar LiHV, but would like to be certain.

Those boards are programmed out to the mah battery that goes into them. You can’t cross the 47 board with the 48 board because the will not read correctly. If you read back in this post I think in the 45 page number area somewhere there was another guy and an electrical engineer that where trying to redesign the board to take whatever battery you wanted to hook to it and had no success at all.

Wolfiesden · Oct 12, 2017

jlrsn said:
I've read your experience using T-motor 1448 CF Props at altitude and my experience using the Xoar CF Props at 8,000' is completely different. Take a look at my props. Others report that it's caused by my Smartphones Rolling Shutter but I still don't trust not getting a blade strike.

Rolling shutter 100% absolutely positive without a doubt take it to the bank.

Take a photo of your bird with a camera with a REAL shutter (borrow a friend's DSLR) and you will see the props are perfectly straight.

If your props were really deforming like that, your bird wouldn't have gotten off the ground. It would have shaken itself apart due to the imbalances and high RPM of the blades.

How the Rolling Shutter Effect Works