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Battery Mod Info

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Sorry if this question has been asked before, but does the two batteries (in my case 3S batteries) need to have the same mAh and the same C rating ? Or can i use for example one 3S 2200 mAh battery and another one which is a 3S 1500 mAh?
And the two batteris having different C ratings as well? Or do they need to match exactly?
 
Sorry if this question has been asked before, but does the two batteries (in my case 3S batteries) need to have the same mAh and the same C rating ? Or can i use for example one 3S 2200 mAh battery and another one which is a 3S 1500 mAh?
And the two batteris having different C ratings as well? Or do they need to match exactly?

they should match or else you are just asking for trouble.. even if you didnt drain them all the way.. to risky.
 
Yes buy 2 of the same brand, capacity, C rating.. dont go risking anything playing mix and match ;)
 
I noticed that my current 3S 2200 mAh LIPO can be as low as 8C, it has no markings but similar batteries that looks exactly the same is around 8C, and the battery is advertised as a transmitter battery. So i guess that battery will not do?
And i assume there is no way of finding out what the C rating is on a LIPO battery?
So when i order 2 new 3S batteries what is a suitable C rating to aim for, when using the batteries as AUX batteries for the Inspire 1?

And since i will use 3S batteries they will be connected in series which only makes the voltage higher and not the mAh, so i guess each battery will need to be a pretty high mAh, like 4000 mAh on each battery, is that correct? I wonder if that will be too much weight.

I could buy 1 6S battery instead, but then i will need to mount it under the craft for stability, and i dont want to mess around with the VPS unit. And 2 6S batteries costs pretty much compared to 2 3S batteries.
 
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f764cc71c2e171d910ee0cae1809036a.jpg



Cute clip to hook up dual aux batteries to an inspire 1 pro that makes mod to the tb48 unnecessary
 
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What is the minimum recommended C rating for the AUX batteries?
Will for example 20C do?
 
Stock is 10 so anything higher than that. Shoot for 20

Just for my own education and if anyone else is curious, is the current draw controlled (i.e. limited) by the ESC? I am guessing if the ESC will not draw more than 10C then there is no benefit to having a higher rated battery (assuming the battery you get is actually 10C). Has anyone tested if there are performance benefits to higher C batteries? My understanding is they are heavier.
 
Just for my own education and if anyone else is curious, is the current draw controlled (i.e. limited) by the ESC? I am guessing if the ESC will not draw more than 10C then there is no benefit to having a higher rated battery (assuming the battery you get is actually 10C). Has anyone tested if there are performance benefits to higher C batteries? My understanding is they are heavier.
They are heavier. I notice a difference when I switch between my 10c packs and my 30 c packs. Motor rpm slows a bit using the 10c at full stick up where as the 30c doesn’t slow a bit. I don’t think I’d be using any 60c battery on it tho cause that may be asking for trouble if your heavy on the sticks for to long of a period. Also got 73.8 mph out of the bird that day with the 30c packs.
 
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Maybe i should buy the 20C batteries instead of the 10C then?
Im just worried the C rating cant be trusted when its a "no name" battery?
I guess there is no way of easily checking the C rating a LIPO?

I was thinking of buying the Battery mod clip, but 50 GBP with shipping for a XT60 connector with a couple of metal pieces seems a bit high. Maybe i just do the battery mod myself?
 
Maybe i should buy the 20C batteries instead of the 10C then?
Im just worried the C rating cant be trusted when its a "no name" battery?
I guess there is no way of easily checking the C rating a LIPO?

I was thinking of buying the Battery mod clip, but 50 GBP with shipping for a XT60 connector with a couple of metal pieces seems a bit high. Maybe i just do the battery mod myself?

Personally, I am quite weary of the battery clips, I know many people use them without issues but wedging something, regardless of how tight the fit it, on a flying machine seems like a terrible idea to me (I also have already done the mod). It wasn't too hard to solder some leads if you're good with a soldering iron (I recommend buying a thin tip if you don't have one). I have had my mod for over a year now with no issues, if you are handy with wiring and electronics generally, I would say just do the mod yourself, it probably takes an hour on average, maybe two hours really slowly and if you are unsure of your soldering skills and how to take the bird apart.

On the C rating, I would not worry about it too much as you will be running batteries in parallel which basically splits the current load. While you have no telemetry for your auxiliary battery, you will notice less voltage drop on your main battery when using two batteries in parallel than when you use only the main battery. For example, if I go full sticks on just the main battery, the voltage will drop below 4.00v after a few extended full speed runs, but with two batteries, I never drop below 4.00v regardless of how hard I'm flying until the batteries are ~60% depleted.
 
Personally, I am quite weary of the battery clips, I know many people use them without issues but wedging something, regardless of how tight the fit it, on a flying machine seems like a terrible idea to me (I also have already done the mod). It wasn't too hard to solder some leads if you're good with a soldering iron (I recommend buying a thin tip if you don't have one). I have had my mod for over a year now with no issues, if you are handy with wiring and electronics generally, I would say just do the mod yourself, it probably takes an hour on average, maybe two hours really slowly and if you are unsure of your soldering skills and how to take the bird apart.

On the C rating, I would not worry about it too much as you will be running batteries in parallel which basically splits the current load. While you have no telemetry for your auxiliary battery, you will notice less voltage drop on your main battery when using two batteries in parallel than when you use only the main battery. For example, if I go full sticks on just the main battery, the voltage will drop below 4.00v after a few extended full speed runs, but with two batteries, I never drop below 4.00v regardless of how hard I'm flying until the batteries are ~60% depleted.

Thanks for your answer. Actually i will be connecting it in a serial connection since i will use two 3S batteries, dont know if that makes any difference?

About the soldering, that shouldnt be any problems, but is there a way to not need to make holes in the plastic casing of the battery?
 
My mod is different. I modded one battery then said forget that cause I had 8 more batteries to go. I soldered leads to the power board tabs and adhered the XT 60 plug to the side with some hot glue.
 
Thanks for your answer. Actually i will be connecting it in a serial connection since i will use two 3S batteries, dont know if that makes any difference?

About the soldering, that shouldnt be any problems, but is there a way to not need to make holes in the plastic casing of the battery?

Yes, as Scoobywrx05jdm2fast4furiousAWDorifto mentioned, you can mod the aircraft instead of each battery. If you search through this thread, closer to the beginning (you can sort and see if you can filter by my username), you will see how some of us just soldered two leads to the aircraft (specifically, on the battery compartment tabs), but this requires some disassembly of your inspire. This makes it so you can use the aux batteries with any DJI battery, just be sure to have the leads covered/secured if you are only running the DJI battery.

EDIT: I found the relevant post for you that Nick H. posted: Battery Mod Info

My mod is different. I modded one battery then said forget that cause I had 8 more batteries to go. I soldered leads to the power board tabs and adhered the XT 60 plug to the side with some hot glue.
 
Yes, as Scoobywrx05jdm2fast4furiousAWDorifto mentioned, you can mod the aircraft instead of each battery. If you search through this thread, closer to the beginning (you can sort and see if you can filter by my username), you will see how some of us just soldered two leads to the aircraft (specifically, on the battery compartment tabs), but this requires some disassembly of your inspire. This makes it so you can use the aux batteries with any DJI battery, just be sure to have the leads covered/secured if you are only running the DJI battery.

EDIT: I found the relevant post for you that Nick H. posted: Battery Mod Info

Thanks, but solder on the craft itself, plus that requires some disassembly, i don't know if i would feel comfortable soldering on the aircraft.
In that case i rather solder on the battery instead. I just wonder if there is some way of not needing to do holes in the plastic cover of the battery, if the cables can be squeezed in somehow, under the top part, i guess not?

I found two 3S 1800 mAh batteries at home, is that too little Amperage? I don't care about extra flight time, i just want the AUX battery mod as redundancy so i have time to land in case of main battery failure.
Would two 3S 1800mAh batteries do? How many extra minutes could i get from them? Since they are 3S batteries I'm not sure 1800 mAh will be enough ?

EDIT: By the way, whats the maximum weight per battery that would be acceptable? Would 450 grams per battery be too heavy?
 
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