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fpvlr inspire1 antennas

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I just found the guy that makes these over on RC groups. The fact that IBCrazy seems to support his product is encouraging.

Im still confused about the Circular polarization, does anyone have a pic of the antenna on the I1? is it CP also?
 
Hey LDF boys (and girls??)
Got word from tony at fpvlr and this is the current prices..
For the basic kit the cost is 174.00 USD
It comes with dual half sphere helix antennas and a 3 d printed mount ..
Istalation is 250.00 USD ..
Shipping to Melbourne Australia is 50.00 USD..
The 3d mount is very thick so I'd be surprised if it would warp..
http://fpvlr.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=84_89&product_id=130
http://fpvlr.com/shop/
Thanks mate :)
 
hi guys remember to always charge that blue battery with the switch set to ON and charge it for 3 hours.
Battery will not take a charge if set to OFF, and then it will sag and die while you are out at range. Not fun.
have you looked into a way to power the boosters from the internal lipo? Surely that would be a little more fool proof
 
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I say keep it separate from the RC psu. At least this way if there's ever an issue with the RC and you need to claim warranty, it's just a matter of disconnecting the 2 antennas and off you go.
I do see your point tho.
 
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have you looked into a way to power the boosters from the internal lipo? Surely that would be a little more fool proof
Personally I wouldn't leach off the lipo in the rc..I don't want anything to interfere with the rc..
I think what has happened with a couple of the guys is they didn't get a full charge initially..
Apparently the batteries are touchy if not charged correctly..
There's only a couple of the option two kits out there right now so there is a small learning curve to go through..
Got a feeling the next thing you hear will be all positive!!
Keep up the safe LDF flying boys!!
Turbo..
 
I say keep it separate from the RC psu. At least this way if there's ever an issue with the RC and you need to claim warranty, it's just a matter of disconnecting the 2 antennas and off you go.
I do see your point tho.
I would get hold of whatever connector they use internally and make a loom up that wouldnt affect the internal wires. Plus if your claiming warenty, the holes drilled in the case will make it obvious that you have voided the warrenty anyway.

I cant see how the RC would get affected by adding some draw to it. You could even add a relay to power the modules when the RC is powered up, all you would need to do is find a suitable 5v switched voltage inside somewhere and tap off that...
 
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The internal battery is a 2s so you'd need a step up regulator to run the amps off the internal battery. Like this one...

http://www.getfpv.com/electronics/12v-step-up-voltage-regulator.html

I think you'd only need one regulator to power both amps & the regulator has an logic level switch, (+/-35ma parasitic drain) so you could turn the regulator on/off with either a microswitch or possibly the main power circuit, if you want to go probing for it...

Of course you'd need to expect to be down to one LED lit on the Tx's power meter after ~4 flights.

Isolate that regulator like it has herpes! Incase in plastic & cover the plastic with foil tape & then insulate the foil tape from everything else inside the Tx.

There's not much you can do with the amps though, they're machined aluminum & the antenna headers are soldered into place, so just short of a rework station would be needed to disassemble the amp itself. The 2 amps are bigger & more heavy than the battery, & the amps need to be inside the aluminum else exposing everything to RF noise it may create. To see what I mean turn on the Tx w/o powering the amps & go into Pilot app screen with the HD channels & then turn on the amps. Watch the red bars on all the channels.

I think in the end, powering the amps with the internal battery is doable but a hassle & doesn't really streamline things much.
 
hi guys remember to always charge that blue battery with the switch set to ON and charge it for 3 hours.
Battery will not take a charge if set to OFF, and then it will sag and die while you are out at range. Not fun.
Good to know, but my battery is black not blue. Wish there was an led indicator on battery showing battery level… gotta fly with a wing and a prayer hoping amp battery lasts else loss of signal while long ways out, then hoping rth works??? Also experiencing switching to atti mode unexpectedly, which may be related to weak amp battery?
 
put a lipo voltage monitor on the balance lead, assuming its a lipo, that will give you the heads up.

I cant see a low amp battery being the cause of switching to atti........
 
Good to know, but my battery is black not blue. Wish there was an led indicator on battery showing battery level… gotta fly with a wing and a prayer hoping amp battery lasts else loss of signal while long ways out, then hoping rth works??? Also experiencing switching to atti mode unexpectedly, which may be related to weak amp battery?

we tested these batteries, and once fully charge they can power the 2 amps for 3 to 4 hours, but of course you first have to charge them completely with the switch set to ON. I will contact the supplier and see if they can implement a LED strip indicating the charge status. But generally they are good for 5 flights if they are properly charged. The wall plug will turn from red to green when properly charged.
 
we tested these batteries, and once fully charge they can power the 2 amps for 3 to 4 hours, but of course you first have to charge them completely with the switch set to ON. I will contact the supplier and see if they can implement a LED strip indicating the charge status. But generally they are good for 5 flights if they are properly charged. The wall plug will turn from red to green when properly charged.
I've charged amp battery in ON position overnight but charger still is red, never goes green unless I switch battery off. Does that mean I have bad amp battery? Might explain problems I have. Must be defective battery?
 
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I've charged amp battery in ON position overnight but charger still is red, never goes green unless I switch battery off. Does that mean I have bad amp battery? Might explain problems I have. Must be defective battery?

If the charger never goes to green it means litium battery never reaches 12.6v peak. This happens if the battery is allowed to sag below the 3.3v per cell nominal. The manufacturer has kind-of agreed to make a new style battery with 4.5A/h and a led strip indicator of charge status. Price will go up a bit but it's for the best. This won't happen at least for a month or so , after our current stock is depleted.
 

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