HOW TO: Calibrate Zenmuse X3 gimbal - guide
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In general, I am making generalization of all work and correspondence:
- it's almost impossible to independently re-calibrate the gimbal suspension
- fortunately or not successfully.
Appealed to the official support in my country, that's what they answered me -
"...To calibrate the suspension motors, you need to send it to the manufacturer, since the software package necessary for this operation is only for DJI. To send the suspension, you need to contact the technical support DJI..."
________________
As it should be proved - the sequence of the repair work - we collect everything, we close the magnetic nuts with force adjustment so that the suspension does not hang and / or clinch, then we programmatically re-calibrate with a special program or with special equipment.
Wrote a letter in technical support for Jay about the cost of repair / recalibration. I await the answer.
Finish / Curtain
- it's almost impossible to independently re-calibrate the gimbal suspension
- fortunately or not successfully.
Appealed to the official support in my country, that's what they answered me -
"...To calibrate the suspension motors, you need to send it to the manufacturer, since the software package necessary for this operation is only for DJI. To send the suspension, you need to contact the technical support DJI..."
________________
As it should be proved - the sequence of the repair work - we collect everything, we close the magnetic nuts with force adjustment so that the suspension does not hang and / or clinch, then we programmatically re-calibrate with a special program or with special equipment.
Wrote a letter in technical support for Jay about the cost of repair / recalibration. I await the answer.
Finish / Curtain
For a whole week I corresponded with the support DJI. They do not give their address support and repair and all the time trying to shift responsibility to regional dealers. In the last letter they decided to send me to the dealer in France. Horror!
And they do not answer the price of repair at all.
I do not want to send them a gimball for repairs.
The price of repairs may be greater than the cost of a second-hand camera.
While I stopped. I have a second camera. And there is time to find a solution.
I understood one of everything - there is some small (exactly small) secret of DJI, which solves the problem and which they very much hide.
And they do not answer the price of repair at all.
I do not want to send them a gimball for repairs.
The price of repairs may be greater than the cost of a second-hand camera.
While I stopped. I have a second camera. And there is time to find a solution.
I understood one of everything - there is some small (exactly small) secret of DJI, which solves the problem and which they very much hide.
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Given the discussion I take advantage to chidere some information. I'm trying to fix two gimbal for osmo x3, I state that I bought a first on ebay complete with handle and not working, tried the handle with another x3 osmo everything ok, also tested with a x3 inspire always ok. in the meantime I have recovered another x3 camera for osmo, this with a broken flat at the height of the pitch. ordered two flat on ebay, in the meantime disassembled the first x3 following a video of dji, then disassembling the nut on yaw engine, found flat broken at anchor height on yaw support and damaged stopping device with obvious extra stroke of the joint . Performing the replacement of the flat I found the diversity of length reducing the rides for the junction, but I managed to adapt it, reassembled everything but the gimgal does not move, you hear only a buzz of the engines and the fan of the room that runs, I also do not have wifi and apparently no function on the room.Now saw the discussion I learned that the nuts are magnetically polarized to synchronize the movements of the engines, which has not been minimally highlighted in the video dji, so once dismantled definitely will not be possible to make it work without performing the calibration, to I would like to ask if you need to follow the procedure set out in the discussion on all the nuts and if the motor control printed circuit boards are specific and coupled to each magnetized nut, because I think it may have inadvertently exchanged some two x3 circuits. Furthermore, if everything affects the operation of the camera, because even if it does not move according to my opinion it should work equally being powered, test and the operation of the fan, moreover on the handle the LEDs are both of a fixed green light.
I apologize for the long post, thanks
I apologize for the long post, thanks
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The boards are not specific to the camera, however they are specific to the motor they are paired to. For example yaw board cannot be used on the roll motor, but yaw to yaw of another camera should be fine.
All of the nuts do not need to be calibrated if the settings were not offset, but if you changed the flat cable you most likely upset all of the magnetic nuts, therefore full calibration would be required on all axes.
The fan turning on does not tell you much other than the camera works, you can still have issues with the cable, motors etc.
Ideally the calibration needs to be on an inspire, the osmo x3 is a lot harder since you only have the handle to work with, the handle will not allow video feed or wifi if the camera head fails (from memory).
Hope that helps.
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Thanks for the answer, for certain circuits, I have not mixed the cards for the yaw and for the roll, at least I may have reversed between the two x3 but always each for the propio task, replacing the flat cable I have not dismantled the dice , except the one on the pitch I had loosened because the camera moved with some effort and not freely. However since I have two inspire 1 can I try to mount the x3 of the osmo to see if at least the camera signs of operation, or is it better not to do so given the different angles of movement?
Thanks again
Thanks again
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You wont cause any damage connecting it to the osmo, if its a black head osmo x3, it will only work in an osmo so you have to do your best to get the nuts aligned correctly with the camera running live (i have a plastic 3D printed wrench to allow me slight nut movement behind board.
Also keep in mind that the boards have to be in place on top of the nut for the reading to work, cant have them loosely hanging off giving you access.
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Yes, of course, I read that the cards must be positioned with screws in place, but still a last thing, I understand that the circuits can be replaced with others of the same type but if you replace you must still carry out the caliber even if the die was not moved? that is, each circuit has its own settings or are standard
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The camera head locks the various settings, so when you swap boards, it doesnt matter.
If your intact camera was involved in a crash, and you replaced just the motor board, you would not need to re-calibrate all motors, just the replaced unit to match the initial setting. The settings are paired to the camera head.
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I have 2 cameras that needed the camera head. Of course none of this works. I am using the hunt and peck meathod. I have one that is close. Yaw is off 20 degrees. Can't seem to center it
Hi all I could really use some help attempting this. I swapped out a bad encoder board on a camera for one from an x3 with a broken gimbal arm and the calibration was out. I've got the gimbal together and had the yaw adjusted straight on the go app compass. I'm trying to adjust the roll and all i get is the yaw spinning hard lock to lock. What have I got wrong??
If you change the camera head it becomes a nightmare. I have one that I can't get. If you have the same head and just repacace an arm. you must mark where the nuts are with a magic marker. Don't touch the ones you don't change. Then you just have to tweak the one. You can replace the ribbon cable without removing the nuts. The nuts have a magnetic north. the camera head is where the info is stored and no 2 seem to adjust the same.
Yeah the gimbal arms were shot on the spare I have so I changed the board in the head. I didnt change the ESC's on the gimbal. I've got the yaw straight its just getting any sense at all out of the roll or pitch that doesn't send the gimbal yaw spinning lock to lock
Hi, how much do you charge to calibrate the gimbal? I have a good one but calibration is off so it won't do the dance and i'm pretty close to it, but still have roll limit reached. Please let me know, my personal email is [email protected]Hi Guys,
A little summary from my weekend, decided to craft up a how to guide on fixing your crashed or out of sync gimbals.
If you guys have a gimbal that will not power up or acts up, this how to may help you.
MODS please move to appropriate area if this discussion is in the wrong place.
WARNING: try this repair at your own risk, this is meant as a helper guide. I am not responsible for damage to your gimbal or aircraft.
Steps
1: Take many notes and pics along the way while dismantling your gimbal.
2: Remove one magnet nut at a time, mark it, and retest location before moving to next unit.
3. Some gimbals have a N stamped on the, i usually ignore that as it does not always line up or it may coincide to a certain position the arm is turned to match that N.
4. Always have IC boards secured with screws before installing gimbal for tests.
5. Fix YAW, ROLL, PITCH... in that order. YAW is not as critical but can act erratic if very off skew.
6. remark locations again once it fires up, remove nuts and add loc-tite red or blue ... and then allow to dry before reseal.
7. WARNING: some gimbals may not be the same as these settings, takes some testing.
8. If gimbal twitch occurs, its a good sign but do not let the gimbal kill itself smashing around, catch it and let the motors rest, resume minor adjustment to PITCH and ROLL motor.
9. Assemble all parts in reverse order and close up all caps, let loctite dry.
10. Happy flying.
Pics show notes as well. If you have any parts or bad gimbals, I'm always looking for parts or new projects. I accept DJI parts as donations or well priced
View attachment 18689 View attachment 18688 View attachment 18687
Hi Guys,
A little summary from my weekend, decided to craft up a how to guide on fixing your crashed or out of sync gimbals.
If you guys have a gimbal that will not power up or acts up, this how to may help you.
MODS please move to appropriate area if this discussion is in the wrong place.
WARNING: try this repair at your own risk, this is meant as a helper guide. I am not responsible for damage to your gimbal or aircraft.
Steps
1: Take many notes and pics along the way while dismantling your gimbal.
2: Remove one magnet nut at a time, mark it, and retest location before moving to next unit.
3. Some gimbals have a N stamped on the, i usually ignore that as it does not always line up or it may coincide to a certain position the arm is turned to match that N.
4. Always have IC boards secured with screws before installing gimbal for tests.
5. Fix YAW, ROLL, PITCH... in that order. YAW is not as critical but can act erratic if very off skew.
6. remark locations again once it fires up, remove nuts and add loc-tite red or blue ... and then allow to dry before reseal.
7. WARNING: some gimbals may not be the same as these settings, takes some testing.
8. If gimbal twitch occurs, its a good sign but do not let the gimbal kill itself smashing around, catch it and let the motors rest, resume minor adjustment to PITCH and ROLL motor.
9. Assemble all parts in reverse order and close up all caps, let loctite dry.
10. Happy flying.
Pics show notes as well. If you have any parts or bad gimbals, I'm always looking for parts or new projects. I accept DJI parts as donations or well priced
View attachment 18689 View attachment 18688 View attachment 18687
Hi Linux Global, just stumbled on this page and was fixing my X3 Gimbal. I think i have it close to the actual spot but when the camer does the calibration dance, the roll still rolls up and down as it goes around. My question is if the Roll arm dips, do you turn the hex screw toward it or away from it. I want to reach out but don't know how to reach your email exactly.
So imagine look at the x3 from behind, if the roll arm dips on the right below the horizon line, should i turn the hex screw CW or CCW? My pitch is okay close to centered but not exact. So should i fix both the roll and the pitch at the same time or just work on the roll and when it's perfectly level then work on the pitch.
Thanks.
I had this question all figured out once and even wrote it down. Can't find my note. My experience tell me to adjust one at a time. I would do the roll next and move the nut just a touch left. If it is worse go to the right. However be sure to mark it where you started. The x3 and x5 are about the same in this regard. I always start with the yaw as it is the easiest, then I do the roll and finally the pitch. You can spend many hours at this if you didn't mark the nuts before removal. I learned the hard way. If you change the camera head, none of your marks will be right as the adjustments are stored in the head.
Thanks but to confirm is the left means clock wise or counter clock-wise? Arm to the right dip down (CW fashion) then do I turn the nut CW or CCW? But in any case thanks for the original post.
Left for me is ccw. I wish I could remember but it has been several months sense I worked on an x3. I sounds like you are very close. I did discover that if the yaw does not center perfectly, you can't adjust it to center. I have a lot of yaw esc boards and I found that by trying a different board It reacted differently and I was able to find one that centered perfectly. The x3 is a buggy little bugger.
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