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** INSPIRE 2 - NEW T MOTOR FOLDING PROPS **

I guess I am the only one that is a bit warry of Carbon Fiber Props. I have been happily using CF for years for Props (back in my Phanton 2 days) camera mounts and fishing rods and what concerns me is this. it is not uncommon to occasionally get a small hairline crack that you are unaware of and one day out of the blue you pick up the mount or reel in a fish and snap! Perhaps that technology has come a long way over the years and I should give in another look?
 
I guess I am the only one that is a bit warry of Carbon Fiber Props. I have been happily using CF for years for Props (back in my Phanton 2 days) camera mounts and fishing rods and what concerns me is this. it is not uncommon to occasionally get a small hairline crack that you are unaware of and one day out of the blue you pick up the mount or reel in a fish and snap! Perhaps that technology has come a long way over the years and I should give in another look?
Yes the hairline fractures are harder to pick out than say on wood. Resins have came a ways in the past 10 years but I’d put more trust in a carbon made prop now a days than in a stock plastic one. The Chinese and some of their injection molding really sucks. Ask a friend of mine that lost his p4p to a prop coming apart in flight . Cold splay line when the prop was made is the reason it came apart. Couldn’t tell anything was wrong from the outside,which is the bad thing about plastic. Unless you have had years of experience in the plastic molding industry it is harder to pick out plastic props that you know are well made.
 
I appreaciate your reply. Perhaps it's time for me to move up to Carbon with the rest of the world. I am 55 and I guess old habbits die hard (especially when there are thousands of dollars hanging from them ;)

Thanks, rb
 
I appreaciate your reply. Perhaps it's time for me to move up to Carbon with the rest of the world. I am 55 and I guess old habbits die hard (especially when there are thousands of dollars hanging from them ;)

Thanks, rb
Just make sure you get a good pair. A lot of the people on here use the t motor or xoar props for fixed blade and the folders that Florida Drone Supply carries. Stay away from the cheapo 20 dollar Chinese ones that they sell on eBay.
 
I was all set to buy a set of these and then noticed the postage cost to England with no cheaper method than 2-3 days and the price for posting is the same as the cost of the props. I don't think so.
 
I was all set to buy a set of these and then noticed the postage cost to England with no cheaper method than 2-3 days and the price for posting is the same as the cost of the props. I don't think so.

I agree mate. The postage wasn’t cheap. I was only shipping to Canada too. But I feel like these will be mint, at the end of the day.
 
Hmm these do look interesting considering they are specifically designed for the Inspire 2.

I have hated the thought of adapters or anything like that but this appears a little different.

I am intrigued.
I am in the opposite camp. We are still waiting for the new version of the Lynn Phantom adapters to be released specifically to replace the DJI mounts. All of our “version2” DJI props with the foam stuffed in the hub are now just as loose as the originals. The only way we’ve found to get them on securely is to replace the mounting towers.

Are we the only ones or are loosely mounted props something we just accept now?

Share your thoughts
 
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Just got my set and they are awesome!!! Thanks for the fast shipping guys.
Definitely increased flight time but I haven't tested speed or anything else yet.
 

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No. You actually remove the DJI prop mount that is attached to the motor. The hub of the folding prop was designed to mount directly to the motor. There is no mount or adapter between the motor and the prop this way.

You just need to be careful when removing the mount from the motor - DJI uses a very strong thread locker on the bolts. Many people use a little heat to warm the bolts up before removing them (hair dryer or similar) - this has worked very well.
 
I was all set to buy a set of these and then noticed the postage cost to England with no cheaper method than 2-3 days and the price for posting is the same as the cost of the props. I don't think so.
We understand that the cost of fast, trackable shipping overseas is very high. We used to offer some slower and less expensive options but occasionally had delivery issues and people unhappy with the delivery speed. If you are interested in something other than the fast options from UPS and FED EX just send us a private message with your address and we will give you some additional options.
 
No. You actually remove the DJI prop mount that is attached to the motor. The hub of the folding prop was designed to mount directly to the motor. There is no mount or adapter between the motor and the prop this way.

You just need to be careful when removing the mount from the motor - DJI uses a very strong thread locker on the bolts. Many people use a little heat to warm the bolts up before removing them (hair dryer or similar) - this has worked very well.

PERFECT! A much better method.

Currently using Lynn's CF adapter and learned your "travel tip" the hard way. Thanks for the response.
 
No. You actually remove the DJI prop mount that is attached to the motor. The hub of the folding prop was designed to mount directly to the motor. There is no mount or adapter between the motor and the prop this way.

You just need to be careful when removing the mount from the motor - DJI uses a very strong thread locker on the bolts. Many people use a little heat to warm the bolts up before removing them (hair dryer or similar) - this has worked very well.
I see this question has been asked but no answer just yet. Will the inspire 2 still fit in the OEM case with these props attached?
 
I see this question has been asked but no answer just yet. Will the inspire 2 still fit in the OEM case with these props attached?

The inspire 2 with the T-Motor props will not fit in the original case from DJI and would require modification to do so. Some modification will also be required on the GPC hard case. It will however fit in the GPC backpack with no modification.

DJICase.jpg DJICase2.JPG DJICase3.JPG
 
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No. You actually remove the DJI prop mount that is attached to the motor. The hub of the folding prop was designed to mount directly to the motor. There is no mount or adapter between the motor and the prop this way.

You just need to be careful when removing the mount from the motor - DJI uses a very strong thread locker on the bolts. Many people use a little heat to warm the bolts up before removing them (hair dryer or similar) - this has worked very well.
Yes you have to be very VERY careful, for unfortunately I had to buy two new motors when I try to remove those darn screws with too much locktite, heating with a blower didn't work, and if you use a drill to loosen the screws be careful that the residual boring metal doesn't fall into the opening vent of the motors, before doing so, put a tape over those vents.
 
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I have seen a few videos now of people heating the bells, I’m not 100% comfortable with that my self, my advice would be to heat the driver and let that transfer the heat down the screw directly, it may take a few attempts to get the heat onto it enough but it will eventually, hair drier is not so bad but heat gun worries me.
 
Can you adjust the tension of the props without removing hubs from the motor (is there a nut on the bottom side or are the hubs threaded ? ) as I see the button allen head is on top versus on the bottom with the Helinengadin folding props ( with nuts on top and will spin without holding with a allen you cannot get to without removing the hubs ) Have been using the Helinengadin folding props since they came out and love them except for that. As for me I applied direct heat from the end of a soldering iron directly to each bolt before attempting to remove the stock hubs ,I believe this is a must when removing along with using a correct ground hardened tip torx if you want to avoid stripping out a screw and a lot of frustration that will come with that. Also work the screw back and forth as you are removing worked well for me.
 
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Can you adjust the tension of the props without removing hubs from the motor (is there a nut on the bottom side or are the hubs threaded ? ) as I see the button allen head is on top versus on the bottom with the Helinengadin folding props ( with nuts on top and will spin without holding with a allen you cannot get to without removing the hubs ) Have been using the Helinengadin folding props since they came out and love them except for that. As for me I applied direct heat from the end of a soldering iron directly to each bolt before attempting to remove the stock hubs ,I believe this is a must when removing along with using a correct ground hardened tip torx if you want to avoid stripping out a screw and a lot of frustration that will come with that. Also work the screw back and forth as you are removing worked well for me.

You can adjust the tension without removing the hubs from the motor. There is a nut on the bottom but it is embedded flush into the hub and will not rotate.
 
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Finally mounted... testing these early this week after loctite cures . Well so far They look badass.
 

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