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Battery Mod Info

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Would you not need to match each cell to the TB47 or TB48? Any sort of cell mismatch and one or the other will be depleted first, then trying to charge the depleted cell(s) as you say. For this to be totally effective and for maximum flight times, the whole system needs balancing out to work in equilibrium.

I'm sure you now can see this, you can increase flight time by adding 1300mAh 6S packs, and looking at it that may be the best trade-off. Adding 4500mAh or 5700mAh will also add a lot of weight...

The C rating is apparently low on the OEM batteries, I cannot confirm this, that will help with the extra weight as you will know. Interesting findings #damoncooper
 
Would you not need to match each cell to the TB47 or TB48? Any sort of cell mismatch and one or the other will be depleted first, then trying to charge the depleted cell(s) as you say. For this to be totally effective and for maximum flight times, the whole system needs balancing out to work in equilibrium.

I'm sure you now can see this, you can increase flight time by adding 1300mAh 6S packs, and looking at it that may be the best trade-off. Adding 4500mAh or 5700mAh will also add a lot of weight...

The C rating is apparently low on the OEM batteries, I cannot confirm this, that will help with the extra weight as you will know. Interesting findings #damoncooper

All correct. As I said above though, I've got some more closely matched batteries to try.

The quest for 30 min continues!
 
Damon as I've disassembled both tb's couldn't your auxiliary batteries be made from half the cells of a stock to 48 hung on each side.. As a note I'm becoming more hell bent on building a twin battery beast since I bought the pro and have the x5 for weight. It also means I have my original 1 that I can install the high heels on and go for T-motors for even more lift and efficiency. I already have a second battery box, upper air frame, tail light, and buss board so it leaves me needing to fabricate the mod and remold the upper which I can handle. What I'm gonna have to become a bit clearer on is how you think the buss boards should be tied together. The bonus ends up being the second buss board would grant the extra receptacles to send power to additional functions like independent FPV, gps locators, lighting, etc. I actually made a schematic of what did what on a buss board for a fellow modifier. If I sent you a copy I'd love your input on how you think it would be best to marry them. Please let me know what you think and what pit falls I might be missing as you've been at this for a lot longer and have a wealth of experience. Oh and for the record if you're sharing your hard earned information I'm happy to supply the fabrication if you decide to go the same way.

Cool. Yeah the 3S config is two 3S's, one on each side, wired in series (effectively forming a 6S), then in parallel with the main TB battery.

I would suggest testing two TB47's wired in parallel first with CoG balanced before you go too far down this road in search of extra flight time. It's this exact combo (2 X TB47D) that gives the Matrice 40min hover time empty.

I have yet to run this scenario but I just need time to mod a TB47 as I've already got the TB->XT60 cable I used in my 2 X TB48 test.

If you get cycles to try this that would be an excellent data point.
 
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Someone should do a CG mac shift calculation after adding 2 1 pound batteries next to the original teen 4714 48 battery. Finding lithium ion batteries that put out 55 to 57 or even 4400 mA Way about a pound apiece. So my concern would be what that does to the scene GMAC shift of the vehicle and whether he can tolerate that type of a shift
 
Someone should do a CG mac shift calculation after adding 2 1 pound batteries next to the original teen 4714 48 battery. Finding lithium ion batteries that put out 55 to 57 or even 4400 mA Way about a pound apiece. So my concern would be what that does to the scene GMAC shift of the vehicle and whether he can tolerate that type of a shift

Your voice to text translation isn't doing the job you think it is :)

But I think what you're trying to say is that batteries are heavy.

The i1 motors are fine. They are rated for much more than stock AUW. The batteries don't weigh a pound a piece and CoG is respected in the mounting solution in using at least.
 
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Sorry to hijack this thread - I have a Phantom 3 Pro with the battery mod. I did many tests, and have some questions/thoughts for the specialists here.
The P3 Pro battery has 4480 mAh at 15.2V. It's a LiHV battery, which is LiPo with 4.35V instead of 4.20V per cell. I have done and documented some tests here (have done more, but only started documenting them now): DJI Phantom 3 Professional battery comparison sheet - Google Sheets

I fly with 2 4S LiHVs attached and closely observed battery voltages today. When starting, DJI app shows 4.35V for each cell. The 4S LiHV also has 4.35V for each cell (same voltage).

However, and this is interesting: this morning my additional batteries were just charged, so they had 4.35V each cell. The DJI battery was charged yesterday. It only had 4.32V each cell, and as you know you cannot charge the DJI batteries when the batteries are above a certain voltage – the DJI charger just stays switched off. So what happened then, is that the additional batteries started charging the DJI battery at the beginning of the flight (a few seconds after take-off). Result: battery error in the app, and the DJI battery automatically switched off to be charged (seems a DJI precaution: when charging, battery switches off). I could continue to fly the P3 on the additional batteries only (with the error), but of course I did not. I switched off P3, and restarted, and then the voltages of the additional batteries were a bit lower than the DJI battery, so I could fly.
So it seems very important that the additional batteries have at least just a little less voltage than the original one. Most people don’t have this problem, as they use normal LiPOs (instead of LiHVs) only that have 4.20V per cell, and not 4.35V per cell as the LiHV I use. So now I must actually make sure that the LiHV has a bit less voltage (which is easy to do with a good charger like the SkyRC D100).

On another note: is the I1/I1 Pro better than the P3 Pro in all aspects?
 
I wasn't aware of the P3 stock battery behavior of shutting down or refusing to be charged/balance when near full.

If true that's some reason for real concern there (especially the shutting off part).

I have never seen the I1 TB4X batteries exhibit this behavior it I always "top up" the day of flight. Cell balancing happens in the last stage of charging so I like to make sure I start with balanced main and aux packs.

As to the general question about whether the I1 is superior "in all aspects", well that's a topic for another thread. This is the Inspire Pilots forum so you'll likely get some biased answers here. I have a P2 non-vision and an I1 and the P2 hasn't made it out of the case since the I1 arrived last Feb.
 
Would you not need to match each cell to the TB47 or TB48? Any sort of cell mismatch and one or the other will be depleted first, then trying to charge the depleted cell(s) as you say. For this to be totally effective and for maximum flight times, the whole system needs balancing out to work in equilibrium.

I'm sure you now can see this, you can increase flight time by adding 1300mAh 6S packs, and looking at it that may be the best trade-off. Adding 4500mAh or 5700mAh will also add a lot of weight...

The C rating is apparently low on the OEM batteries, I cannot confirm this, that will help with the extra weight as you will know. Interesting findings #damoncooper
i think your mistaking about one battery discharging before the other. aux battery should drain at same rate as main battery. main battry will not charge aux battery. please read through this post.
Different Capacity Batteries in Parallel
 
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Sorry to hijack this thread - I have a Phantom 3 Pro with the battery mod. I did many tests, and have some questions/thoughts for the specialists here.
The P3 Pro battery has 4480 mAh at 15.2V. It's a LiHV battery, which is LiPo with 4.35V instead of 4.20V per cell. I have done and documented some tests here (have done more, but only started documenting them now): DJI Phantom 3 Professional battery comparison sheet - Google Sheets

I fly with 2 4S LiHVs attached and closely observed battery voltages today. When starting, DJI app shows 4.35V for each cell. The 4S LiHV also has 4.35V for each cell (same voltage).

However, and this is interesting: this morning my additional batteries were just charged, so they had 4.35V each cell. The DJI battery was charged yesterday. It only had 4.32V each cell, and as you know you cannot charge the DJI batteries when the batteries are above a certain voltage – the DJI charger just stays switched off. So what happened then, is that the additional batteries started charging the DJI battery at the beginning of the flight (a few seconds after take-off). Result: battery error in the app, and the DJI battery automatically switched off to be charged (seems a DJI precaution: when charging, battery switches off). I could continue to fly the P3 on the additional batteries only (with the error), but of course I did not. I switched off P3, and restarted, and then the voltages of the additional batteries were a bit lower than the DJI battery, so I could fly.
So it seems very important that the additional batteries have at least just a little less voltage than the original one. Most people don’t have this problem, as they use normal LiPOs (instead of LiHVs) only that have 4.20V per cell, and not 4.35V per cell as the LiHV I use. So now I must actually make sure that the LiHV has a bit less voltage (which is easy to do with a good charger like the SkyRC D100).

On another note: is the I1/I1 Pro better than the P3 Pro in all aspects?
you can charge a dji battery when its almost completly charge.. just turn on battery first as you would powering up copter then connect charger. it will then continue to charge till full
 
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Would it be possible to charge a modified TB47 with two 6S 1500 mAh in parallel with the stock DJI charger?
That would be nice if the stock DJI charger could be used to charge the whole battery pack instead of charging the two 6S LiPo's separately.
 
Would it be possible to charge a modified TB47 with two 6S 1500 mAh in parallel with the stock DJI charger?
That would be nice if the stock DJI charger could be used to charge the whole battery pack instead of charging the two 6S LiPo's separately.
you need a balance board to balance individuals cell.
 
Here are my 4th experiment flying with what Damon Cooper said 80% of power stright to 8KM in GPS mode, I reach there at 64% power left. Come home in ATTI mode landed with 21% left. The total flying time are 22:18.
 

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Here are my 4th experiment flying with what Damon Cooper said 80% of power stright to 8KM in GPS mode, I reach there at 64% power left. Come home in ATTI mode landed with 21% left.

you are a brave man :) so far out over water :D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here are my 5th experiment(thinking of this is going to be the last for that setting) flying out in 100% ( with 100% atti and 130% sensitive setting ) of power stright to 9KM in GPS mode, I reach there at 68% power left ( compairing to the 4th result 80% of power have 64% left, this time I got to 9KM earlier and got more % left and fly 1 more km than last time) . Come home in ATTI mode landed with 21% left ( same as last time ). The total flying time are 21:34 ( Last time the total flying time are 22:18).
1. The wind condition almost the same.
2. Same location.
3. Mods TB48 battery
4. 2 x 6S 1550mah extra Batteries
5. Flytrex 3G Plus
6. DBS Antenna

So my conclution Dammon Cooper are correct,
less % of powe to fly will give you more time to stay in to the air.
More % of power to fly can let you fly much further but less time.

The above test are risky, you might facing to lose your lovely inspier, so think becareful before you take action.

Additional information to fly that long way is a boring stuff, so I use a rubber ben to hold the full throttle for me :)
 

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Here are my 5th experiment(thinking of this is going to be the last for that setting) flying out in 100% ( with 100% atti and 130% sensitive setting ) of power stright to 9KM in GPS mode, I reach there at 68% power left ( compairing to the 4th result 80% of power have 64% left, this time I got to 9KM earlier and got more % left and fly 1 more km than last time) . Come home in ATTI mode landed with 21% left ( same as last time ). The total flying time are 21:34 ( Last time the total flying time are 22:18).
1. The wind condition almost the same.
2. Same location.
3. Mods TB48 battery
4. 2 x 6S 1550mah extra Batteries
5. Flytrex 3G Plus
6. DBS Antenna

So my conclution Dammon Cooper are correct,
less % of powe to fly will give you more time to stay in to the air.
More % of power to fly can let you fly much further but less time.

The above test are risky, you might facing to lose your lovely inspier, so think becareful before you take action.

Additional information to fly that long way is a boring stuff, so I use a rubber ben to hold the full throttle for me :)

Nice flying TC.
 
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Great flight. Will be testing mine soon too. But clearly shows P3 is far superior for long range. Got to 12.6km and still 60% battery. image.jpeg
 
Great flight. Will be testing mine soon too. But clearly shows P3 is far superior for long range. Got to 12.6km and still 60% battery. View attachment 4757

What are your aux batteries? Keep in mind TC only had small aux batteries attached for 22min flight.

I have achieved 26:34 flight time. Haven't done a LD run but it's capable of 10miles in theory at 22m/s.
 
Had 2x 2200 Zippys. I know he had small ones, so was wondering if bigger ones, say 2 x 3000 or so, would add to range. ?
 
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