Welcome Inspire Pilots!
Join our free DJI Inspire community today!
Sign up

Battery Mod Info

Status
Not open for further replies.
Wow. Great increase in flight time when I changed over to the Multistar 6600 LiHV batteries. 29 minutes to 14%. I'll take it! That was with an X3 camera as I'm still waiting for my X5 to return to me, but my guess is that the X5 will be around 25 to 26 minutes. Again, I don't do any hover tests. I just go out and fly my normal way. The Multistars are a hair bigger than the Lectron 5400 Lipos I've been using. I'll have to weigh them both. No big deal to mount it up in the same way that I was doing before. Even better, they are only $60 each (leave the page open for a few minutes and the $60 deal comes up). Definitely a lot better than the $95 price I've been paying for the Lectron Lipos. I figure there are still better options out there to get more flight time, but I'm very impressed with the bang for the buck you get out of the 6600 LiHVs from Multistar.




In addition, it allowed me to try out the Turnegy Mega 1344W. This charger is surprisingly small. I was expecting something a lot bigger considering the amps and watts it can put out (assuming you have a power supply capable of maxing out this charger). It only has one output, but considering my main use for it will be the LiHVs for my Inspire, that's not a concern. I simply hooked up a parallel charging board to it and all was well. The charger can supposedly pump out 40 amp, but I don't have anything to test that on (or at least, I don't think I do). The Multistars did not come with a charging rate that they can handle so I only slightly went above 1C (around 15 amp) since both multistars in parallel would be 13200mah. The charger handled that with no problems at all and I didn't feel any heat buildup. Are the electronics in it the same as the Powerlab? Don't know, but I don't really care either if it can keep performing at this level. I'm getting both of my Multistars charged up in 1 hour or less and that is good enough for me. Of course if I get 2 more to plug into the parallel charging board, it will need to bump up to 30 amp or so. I'll see if the charger can handle that when the time comes. All in all, I'm super impressed considering this charger only costs $74! That is a steal considering there are not a ton of choices out there right now for an LiHV charger.

Here is my current charging setup. I built my own charger for the Inspire batteries. I use a 1000watt power supply and have made 3 charging bays although I do have room for a 4th. I'm sure one of these days I'll make one more bay, but considering I also connect my Turnegy LiHV charger to it as well, that's a lot of power output. Works out pretty well getting my Inspire batteries and LiHV batteries charging at the same time while only needing the one power supply to do both.


Nice! Thanks for the write up Nick! Can you show your mounting solution with the 6600?

Thx!
 
Sure, I'll take a picture when I get home today from work. My X5 is also out for delivery today so I'm curious to see what kind of flight time I get with the multistar. Hopefully, one of my TB48s is close to 5700 mah so it will be a better test. Mine lose their calibration so easily!

I also recently changed to the amazing tech adapters. Another great mod. Certainly a lot better than the STO adapters.
 
Your battery connection method is anxious to hear.
My aircraft
(Because of battery weight )
can't fly for a long time.
Another great mod???????
 
I will take a picture of my Inspire tonight with the Multistar attached, but I'm attaching it the exact same way that I did the Lectron 5400 in this picture.


I remove the sonar thing since I do not have any use for it and it is dead weight. I don't travel with my Inspire in travel mode (I'm always in landing mode) and I don't fly indoors. This frees up a ton of space to install auxiliary batteries. In addition, I made a small plastic plate and screwed it into the bottom of my Inspire. I'm using the 3M dual lock, but I wanted some redundancy, so I also use 2 re-useable zip ties.

The listed weight of the Lectron is 659 grams. I know I've weighed it before and I'm pretty sure that weight is within 10 grams. The listed weight of the Multistar 6600 is 769 grams. I bet that isn't too far off as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: emtea
I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove this bottom plug from the battery PCB. I can't even find the release tab to push? Any pointers appreciated!

DSC_1860.JPG
 
Just pull it out. It is the same kind of connector that is underneath the Inspire batteries (the ones you pull out to reset the calibration of the batteries). I would wait to pull that plug last after you remove the back portion from the center portion of the Inspire. It'll be easier to get to. Better yet, remove the small phillips screws on the back of the plastic case around the circuit board. You'll be able to separate the two plastic halves and then see the plug underneath.
 
  • Like
Reactions: emtea
Ok, as promised, here is some more info on the Multistar 6600 LiHV. It weighs about 110 grams more than a typical 5200 Lipo (the weights here include the 3M dual lock).
IMG_0239
IMG_0238

As mentioned before, the "volume" size difference isn't that much considering it is being mounted under the craft.

IMG_0240

And here it is mounted on my Inspire. I've made a little groove cut in the mounting plate I made so that it would stay more flat against the bottom of the Inspire while there is a re-useable ziptie in there. The Dual Lock pretty much handles all the lifting, but I like using something redundant just in case.

IMG_0232

IMG_0231

IMG_0230

IMG_0233

Here is the exit for the wires where the sonar thing used to be.

IMG_0234

Lastly, I did the same waypoint setup that I used the previous night, but this time I had my X5. 26 minutes to 15%. Great results as far as I am concerned! I wasn't very far away, but if I was up to 2 miles away, I can still conservatively subtract 4 minutes off that still say that I have a "useable" 22 minutes of flight where I am taking pictures or video the entire time. I think I'll be sticking with the 6600 multistars for awhile.

BTW, I'm not sure if it happened with version 1.8 or this new 1.9, but my Olympus 14-42mm EZ now collapses back down to a pancake when I turn off my Inspire! It used to just stay fully open and extended.
I noticed that last night when I got my X5 back from DJI and updated the firmware.
IMG_0241

IMG_0242
 
Just pull it out. It is the same kind of connector that is underneath the Inspire batteries (the ones you pull out to reset the calibration of the batteries). I would wait to pull that plug last after you remove the back portion from the center portion of the Inspire. It'll be easier to get to. Better yet, remove the small phillips screws on the back of the plastic case around the circuit board. You'll be able to separate the two plastic halves and then see the plug underneath.

Hmm I'm not sure I follow. I can't seem to wiggle it out, I can get some needle nose pliers on it but it just wont budge (I didn't force it obviously, the wires look fragile). I've removed the 5 philips screws holding the board, but I can't take the board off because that last plug is still in. Do I have to disassembly the IMU and stuff to get to this plug?
 
I wish I had a better picture of it, but you can see on page 69 that I have all the plugs removed along with the plug that is giving you difficulties. It is slightly blurry, but on my PCB, it is one of those standard jst plugs that just pushes in. No clicking/spring tab or anything like that. If you don't want to tug on it too hard, I suggest getting a pick and slowly start prying up the edges around the plug.
 
  • Like
Reactions: emtea
I wish I had a better picture of it, but you can see on page 69 that I have all the plugs removed along with the plug that is giving you difficulties. It is slightly blurry, but on my PCB, it is one of those standard jst plugs that just pushes in. No clicking/spring tab or anything like that. If you don't want to tug on it too hard, I suggest getting a pick and slowly start prying up the edges around the plug.
Just got it out! Kinda messed up the plastic real good but oh well... Thanks!!

Can't seem to be able to reach the motor wires inside the arms now to disconnect it. I've removed the rubber grommets but no way to get to the connectors so that i can remove the board entirely...

Okay, you guys must be soldering gods because I don't see how I can get an iron in there, not melt everything around it, and get a good connection at the same time. Is there an easy way to disconnect the motor wires so I can get the entire board out?
 
Last edited:
Just got it out! Kinda messed up the plastic real good but oh well... Thanks!!

Can't seem to be able to reach the motor wires inside the arms now to disconnect it. I've removed the rubber grommets but no way to get to the connectors so that i can remove the board entirely...

Okay, you guys must be soldering gods because I don't see how I can get an iron in there, not melt everything around it, and get a good connection at the same time. Is there an easy way to disconnect the motor wires so I can get the entire board out?

You can un-solder the motor wires from the opposite side of the board if you really wanted to have the board free and clear of everything to make soldering easier. Secondly, I always "scuff" up the area I'm trying to solder for a better connection. Due to the difficult location of soldering these wires, I simply took a hobby razor blade and make a bunch of scratches. Tin the surfaces and the wires, then solder together. Also, an iron with a thin tip to fit in there along with a third hand device goes a long way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: damoncooper
You can un-solder the motor wires from the opposite side of the board if you really wanted to have the board free and clear of everything to make soldering easier. Secondly, I always "scuff" up the area I'm trying to solder for a better connection. Due to the difficult location of soldering these wires, I simply took a hobby razor blade and make a bunch of scratches. Tin the surfaces and the wires, then solder together. Also, an iron with a thin tip to fit in there along with a third hand device goes a long way.

Thanks. Will go buy a thin tip for my soldering iron and figure this out.
 
Ok, as promised, here is some more info on the Multistar 6600 LiHV. It weighs about 110 grams more than a typical 5200 Lipo (the weights here include the 3M dual lock).
IMG_0239
IMG_0238

As mentioned before, the "volume" size difference isn't that much considering it is being mounted under the craft.

IMG_0240

And here it is mounted on my Inspire. I've made a little groove cut in the mounting plate I made so that it would stay more flat against the bottom of the Inspire while there is a re-useable ziptie in there. The Dual Lock pretty much handles all the lifting, but I like using something redundant just in case.

IMG_0232

IMG_0231

IMG_0230

IMG_0233

Here is the exit for the wires where the sonar thing used to be.

IMG_0234

Lastly, I did the same waypoint setup that I used the previous night, but this time I had my X5. 26 minutes to 15%. Great results as far as I am concerned! I wasn't very far away, but if I was up to 2 miles away, I can still conservatively subtract 4 minutes off that still say that I have a "useable" 22 minutes of flight where I am taking pictures or video the entire time. I think I'll be sticking with the 6600 multistars for awhile.

BTW, I'm not sure if it happened with version 1.8 or this new 1.9, but my Olympus 14-42mm EZ now collapses back down to a pancake when I turn off my Inspire! It used to just stay fully open and extended.
I noticed that last night when I got my X5 back from DJI and updated the firmware.
IMG_0241

IMG_0242
Please let me know that it is Multistar 6600mah single + DJI TB48(5700mah)?
 
You can un-solder the motor wires from the opposite side of the board if you really wanted to have the board free and clear of everything to make soldering easier. Secondly, I always "scuff" up the area I'm trying to solder for a better connection. Due to the difficult location of soldering these wires, I simply took a hobby razor blade and make a bunch of scratches. Tin the surfaces and the wires, then solder together. Also, an iron with a thin tip to fit in there along with a third hand device goes a long way.

Nope. I melted part of the GPS wire by accident and part of the plastics around it and still can't get the wire to stick. Might just forget about this whole thing at this point.
 
Nope. I melted part of the GPS wire by accident and part of the plastics around it and still can't get the wire to stick. Might just forget about this whole thing at this point.
You probably aren't transferring enough heat to the piece you're soldering to. When I first did the battery mods, to actual batteries, I was using a smaller tip at 350 Celsius and could not melt the original solder on the terminals, I got bigger station that uses larger tips that hold and transfer more heat, I have at 315 Celsius and works in a second and done. I pre-tin the wire first, then add solder to the piece I'm soldering to, then just press together hold with screw driver or something and remove tip within a second or two and have really strong joints. If your trying to solder to the big tabs you might need more heat on the large tab and it should work. I use solder with 2% silver it's supposed to be stronger.
 

Attachments

  • 20160618_125619.jpg
    20160618_125619.jpg
    4.4 MB · Views: 43
  • 20160618_125014.jpg
    20160618_125014.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 37
You probably aren't transferring enough heat to the piece you're soldering to. When I first did the battery mods, to actual batteries, I was using a smaller tip at 350 Celsius and could not melt the original solder on the terminals, I got bigger station that uses larger tips that hold and transfer more heat, I have at 315 Celsius and works in a second and done. I pre-tin the wire first, then add solder to the piece I'm soldering to, then just press together hold with screw driver or something and remove tip within a second or two and have really strong joints. If your trying to solder to the big tabs you might need more heat on the large tab and it should work. I use solder with 2% silver it's supposed to be stronger.
I've got a 100Wiron that goes to 480C (according to the manual), I just can't get it in position to make it work...I think I'm throwing in the towel and I'm just going to mod two of my TB48 batteries and call it a day.

Putting the bird back together now...I'm hoping I didn't melt the GPS wires...here's the damage.
DSC_1878.JPG
 
I've got a 100Wiron that goes to 480C (according to the manual), I just can't get it in position to make it work...I think I'm throwing in the towel and I'm just going to mod two of my TB48 batteries and call it a day.

Putting the bird back together now...I'm hoping I didn't melt the GPS wires...here's the damage.
View attachment 8903

you should never go above 350 degrees celcius on pcb's. you mostly need a wide tip for the heat to spread and then aolder it. if you have no or not much experience then like me ask someone who can help with that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
you should never go above 350 degrees celcius on pcb's. you mostly need a wide tip for the heat to spread and then aolder it. if you have no or not much experience then like me ask someone who can help with that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah well. Just tested the bird out and I get GPS so I guess the wire is okay. I'm fine with a soldering iron, just not in a tight space and soldering to a tab. Battery mod it is...
 
Design collaboration continues with Neil Watts on the X5/X5R auxiliary battery mount.

New V9 allows for upper plate battery mounting while allowing batteries to move forward under the Inspire boom support rod for much better center of gravity mounting.
373cf3556d2df83b1fe0d401702da3fa.jpg
2fc1b73a5fc6f6c3a3c54e08d4409ae9.jpg
8f6d7e4dc4e24e1e81c20074f700f1eb.jpg
71394270642a2481369e6cf84ca22ef6.jpg
1d5e8bedac3e7cc2e588b30a979c3ffc.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
22,295
Messages
210,756
Members
34,570
Latest member
Manashiroy